he deceased's clothes, drinking vessels, knives, and so
forth, while on the other, lay the presents, making quite a heap, of
shirts, pareos, pieces of cloth, etc., all so new and good that they
might have served to furnish a small shop.

Old Tati soon entered the hut, but quickly returned into the open
air, stopping only a few instants, as the corpse was already most
offensive. He sat down under a tree, and began talking very quietly
and unconcernedly with the neighbours, as if nothing had happened.
The female relatives and neighbours remained in the hut; they, too,
chatted and gossiped very contentedly, and moreover ate and smoked.
I was obliged to have the wife, children, and relations of the
deceased pointed out to me, for I was unable to recognise them by
their demeanour. In a little time, the stepmother and wife rose,
and throwing themselves on the coffin, howled for half an hour; but
it was easy to see that their grief did not come from the heart.
Their moaning was always pitched in the same monotonous key. Both
then returned with smiling faces and dry eyes to their seats, and
appeared to resume the conversation at the point at which they had
broken it off. The deceased's canoe was burnt upon the shore.

I had seen enough, and returned to my quarters to make some
preparations for my trip to the lake the next day. The distance is
reckoned to be eighteen miles, so that the journey there and back
may be performed in two days with ease, and yet a guide had the
conscience to ask ten dollars (2 pounds) for his services. With the
assistance of old Tati, however, I procured one for three dollars
(12s.).

Pedestrian trips are very fatiguing in Tahiti, since it is so richly
watered that the excursionist is constantly obliged to wade through
plains of sand and rivers. I was very suitably clothed for the
purpose, having got strong men's shoes, without any stockings,
trousers, and a blouse, which I had fastened up as high as my hips.
Thus equipped I began, on the 7th of May, my short journey, in
company with my guide. In the first third of my road, which lay
along the coast, I counted about thirty-two brooks which we were
obliged to walk through. We then struck off, through ravines, into
the interior of the island, first calling, however, at a hut to
obtain some refreshment. The inmates were very friendly, and gave
us some bread-fruit and fish, but very willingly accepted a small
present in exchange.

In the in