often
of immense size, and of a thousand tons' burden. I also saw some
Chinese men-of-war, flat, broad, and long, and mounting twenty or
thirty cannons. {93} Another object of interest was the mandarins'
boats, with their painted sides, doors, and windows, their carved
galleries, and pretty little silk flags, giving them the appearance
of the most charming houses; but what delighted me most was the
flower-boats, with their upper galleries ornamented with flowers,
garlands, and arabesques. A large apartment and a few cabinets,
into which the interior is divided, are reached through doors and
windows which have almost a Gothic appearance. Mirrors and silk
hangings adorn the walls, while glass chandeliers and coloured paper
lanterns, between which swing lovely little baskets with fresh
flowers, complete the magic scene.

These flower-boats are always stationary, and are frequented by the
Chinese as places of amusement, both by day and night. Plays are
acted here, and ballets and conjuring performed. Women, with the
exception of a certain class, do not frequent these places;
Europeans are not exactly prevented from entering them, but are
exposed, especially in the present unfavourable state of public
opinion, to insult and even injury.

In addition to these extraordinary vessels, let the reader picture
to himself thousands of small boats (schampans), some at anchor,
some crossing and passing in all directions, with fishermen casting
their nets, and men and children amusing themselves by swimming, and
he will have some idea of the scene I witnessed. I often could not
avoid turning away with terror at seeing the little children playing
and rolling about upon the narrow boats, I expected every instant
that one or other of them would certainly fall overboard. Some
parents are cautious enough to fasten hollow gourds, or bladders
filled with air, on their children's backs, until they are six years
old, so as to prevent them sinking so quickly, if they should happen
to tumble into the water.

All these multifarious occupations--this ceaseless activity, this
never-ending bustle, form so peculiar a feature, that it is hardly
possible for a person who has not been an eye-witness to obtain a
correct idea of it.

It is only during the last few years that we European women have
been allowed to visit or remain in the factories at Canton. I left
the vessel without any apprehension; but first, I had to consider
how I shoul