d find my way to the house of a gentleman named Agassiz,
for whom I had brought letters of recommendation. I explained to
the captain, by signs, that I had no money with me, and that he must
act as my guide to the factory, where I would pay him. He soon
understood me, and conducted me to the place, and the Europeans
there showed me the particular house I wanted.
On seeing me arrive, and hearing the manner in which I had
travelled, and the way that I had walked from the vessel to his
house, Mr. Agassiz was extremely surprised, and would hardly credit
that I had met with no difficulties or injury. From him I learned
what risks I, as a woman, had run in traversing the streets of
Canton with no escort but a Chinese guide. Such a thing had never
occurred before, and Mr. Agassiz assured me that I might esteem
myself as exceedingly fortunate in not having been insulted by the
people in the grossest manner, or even stoned. Had this been the
case, he told me that my guide would have immediately taken to
flight, and abandoned me to my fate.
I had certainly remarked, on my way from the vessel to the factory,
that both old and young turned back to look after me, and that they
hooted and pointed at me with their fingers; the people ran out of
the booths, and gradually formed a crowd at my heels. I had,
however, no alternative but to preserve my countenance; I walked,
therefore, calmly on, and perhaps it is to the very fact of my
manifesting no fear that I escaped unmolested.
I had not intended to stop long in Canton, as, since the last war
between the English and Chinese, Europeans are obliged to be more
careful than ever how they show themselves in public. This hatred
is more especially directed against women, as it is declared in one
of the Chinese prophecies that a woman will some day or other
conquer the Celestial Empire. On account of this, I entertained but
slight hopes of seeing anything here, and thought of proceeding
directly to the port of Shanghai, in the north of China, where, as I
was informed, it was far easier to obtain access both among the
nobility and lower classes. Fortunately, however, I made the
acquaintance of a German gentleman, Herr von Carlowitz, who had been
settled for some time in Canton. He offered, in the kindest manner,
to act as my Mentor, on condition that I should arm myself with
patience until the mail from Europe, which was expected in a few
days, had come in. {95} At such times
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