s in a slight
hollow; it is about 800 feet across. The surrounding scenery is the
most remarkable. The lake is so closely hemmed in by a ring of
lofty and precipitous green mountains, that there is no room even
for a footing between the water and the rocks, and its bed might be
taken for an extinguished volcano filled with water--a supposition
which gains additional force from the masses of basalt which occupy
the foreground. It is plentifully supplied with fish, one kind of
which is said to be peculiar to the locality; it is supposed that
the lake has a subterranean outlet, which as yet remains
undiscovered.

To cross the lake, it is either necessary to swim over or trust
oneself to a dangerous kind of boat, which is prepared by the
natives in a few minutes. Being desirous of making the attempt, I
intimated this by signs to my guide. In an instant he tore off some
plantain-branches, fastened them together with long, tough grass,
laid a few leaves upon them, launched them in the water, and then
told me to take possession of this apology for a boat. I must own
that I felt rather frightened, although I did not like to say so. I
stept on board, and my guide swam behind and pushed me forward. I
made the passage to the opposite side and back without any accident,
but I was in truth rather alarmed the whole time. The boat was
small, and floated under rather than upon the water--there was
nothing I could support myself with, and every minute I expected to
fall into the lake. I would not advise any one who cannot swim ever
to follow my example.

After I had sufficiently admired the lake and the surrounding
scenery, we retraced our way for some hundred yards, until we
reached a little spot roofed over with leaves. Here my guide
quickly made a good fire, after the Indian fashion. He took a small
piece of wood, which he cut to a fine point, and then selecting a
second piece, he made in it a narrow furrow not very deep. In this
he rubbed the pointed stick until the little particles which were
detached during the operation began to smoke. These he threw into a
quantity of dry leaves and grass which he had got together for the
purpose, and swung the whole several times round in the air, until
it burst out into flames. The entire process did not take more than
two minutes.

For our supper, he gathered a few plantains and laid them on the
fire. I profited by the opportunity to dry my clothes, by sitting
down near