ht plow with very short
singletree. Pruned some. All limbs where cut off were painted. Cut close
and smooth; wounds healed readily. Tried to prune so that air and sun
would go through and not against the trees. Pinch off all water or
tender sprouts.
To protect from rabbits and borers I stand corn-stalks running clear up
to branches around body; tie at top and bottom; keep trees low, a little
heavier on southwest side. I believe with thorough cultivation and stalk
protection we would hear of less borers. All mulch was kept away from
bodies of trees. I believe it all nonsense not to prune, but it should
be done while they are young. My observation has been all my life that a
well-balanced tree is longer lived, has more bushels of fruit, of better
quality, smoother limbs and trunks. So I would say if you do not intend
to protect the bodies of your young trees and prune do not buy or plant
them; it does not do to sow oats, wheat, rye, millet or any grain crops
in your orchard. It is an easy way to keep weeds down and a sure way to
kill your orchard. It does not pay to pasture even with calves; chickens
are at all times beneficial; hogs after your orchard has matured so the
trees can resist the hog, when he rubs against them, which the hog is
sure to do, and perhaps he will pull some of the lower limbs. I have
never sprayed, but firmly believe it profitable. Next year I expect to
plant out a new orchard and cultivate along the line of the one I have
told about, with such help as I can get from the horticultural
department.
* * * * *
D. S. HAINES, Edwardsville, Wyandotte county: Has been in Kansas
twenty-six years; has 3000 apple trees from two to twenty-five years
old. Commercial varieties, Ben Davis, Missouri Pippin, Jonathan, and
Willow Twig; and for family use, Early Harvest, Red Astrachan, Maiden's
Blush, Jonathan, Grimes's Golden Pippin, Rawle's Janet, Celestia, and
Winesap. Has tried and discarded Bellflower, Pennock, Baldwin, McAfee's
Nonesuch and others for barrenness. Best location, hilltop, sandy loam
with clay subsoil--any slope will do. Plants either in fall or spring,
two-year-old thrifty trees, fifteen by thirty feet apart, a little
deeper than they stood in the nursery. Grows corn, potatoes, cabbage,
etc., well cultivated, among the trees, but not to crowd them, for five
or six years. Uses a spading harrow where no crop is grown. After six
years sows to clover. Needs no win
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