enient, should be in the same direction.
After filling the hole, bank up a steep mound of earth around the tree.
If this is properly done no ordinary wind will ever move it. We prefer
two-year-old or strong one-year-old trees, because they can be set more
rapidly, cost less labor, less money, live better, and grow more stocky.
We want them taken up with care, give no pruning whatever, neither "cut
their tops in to balance the roots," when planting in orchard. Trees
that are taken up when young and set out in an open orchard without
pruning grow stronger and more stocky, bear sooner, and are less subject
to blight, sun-scald, and the attack of flathead and roundhead borers.
We have root-grafted as many as 500,000 in one season on sections of
roots from two to six inches long with scions from three to twenty
inches long, to see which were the best. Two-inch sections from one-year
roots, grafted with scions about six inches long, set deep enough to
form roots on the stock, are best. This "whole-root graft" is simply a
_humbug_. It is the strength and vigor of seedling roots, not the length
of them, that make the best-rooted trees. No sensible man will pretend
to graft whole seedlings [roots] and set them out in a nursery. It
cannot be done with success. We must cut off a portion of the root to do
it. The question arises, how much? It is then not a whole root, and it
becomes a question what length of root is best. It is not advisable to
bud or graft seedling trees in the nursery, for all seedlings are not of
the same vigor and hardiness; consequently the trees would differ
similarly.

I plant my orchard to corn, potatoes, garden-truck, and small fruits,
and keep this up, with clean cultivation, using a Planet jr. horse hoe,
until they begin to bear, and cease cropping after ten years, planting
nothing unless the above-mentioned crops or clover in a bearing orchard.
Windbreaks are injurious unless planted at least 200 feet from the
orchard. The best protection is to plant the two outer rows of
fruit-trees close together; they can be cut out, if desired, when they
become too thick. This is better than high-growing shelter trees or
evergreens. We want a free circulation of air to pass among the trees. A
high and heavy protection produces an eddy which blights and sun-scalds
the trees, as well as hastens the ripening and dropping of apples. We
have had no occasion to use any protection from rabbits and borers since
we quit prun