s. The march began at eight in the evening, and did
not end till four o'clock the next morning, for at each church they
passed they stopped for a Hymn and Holy Water. And, by the way, we were
told that one of these same choice Friars, who had been set to watching
the body while it lay in state, fell asleep one night, and let the
Tapers catch fire of the rich Velvet Mantle, lined with Ermine and
powdered over with gold Flower-de-Luces, which melted all the candles,
and burnt off one of the feet of the Departed, before it wakened the
watcher.

It was afterwards my fortune to know Paris very well; but I cannot say
that I thought much of the place on first coming to it. Dirt there was
everywhere, and the most villanous smells that could be imagined. A
great deal of Show, but a vein of Rascal manners running through it all.
Nothing neat or handsomely ordered. Where my Master stood to see the
Burial Procession, the balcony was hung with Crimson Damask and Gold;
but the windows behind him were patched in half-a-dozen places with
oiled paper. At Dinner they gave you at least Three Courses; but a third
of the Repast was patched up with Sallets, Butter, Puff-paste, or some
such miscarriages of Dishes. Nothing like good, wholesome, substantial
Belly-Timber. None but Germans, and other Strangers, wore fine clothes;
the French people mainly in rags, but powdered up to their eyebrows.
Their coaches miserably horsed, and rope-harnessed; yet, in the way of
Allegories on the panels, all tawdry enough for the Wedding of Cupid
and Psyche. Their shop-signs extremely laughable. Here some living at
the Y Gue; some at Venus's Toilette; and others at the Sucking Cat.
Their notions of Honour most preposterous. It was thought mighty
dishonourable for any that was a Born Gentleman not to be in the Army,
or in the King's Service, but no dishonour at all to keep Public Gaming
Houses; there being at least five hundred persons of the first Quality
in Paris living by it. You might go to their Houses at all Hours of the
Night, and find Hazard, Pharaoh, &c. The men who kept the gaming-tables
at the Duke of Gesvres' paid him twelve guineas a night for the
privilege. Even the Princesses of the Blood were mean enough to go
snacks in the profits of the banks kept in their palaces. I will say
nothing more of Paris in this place, save that it was the fashion of the
Ladies to wear Red Hair of a very deep hue; these said Princesses of the
Blood being consumedly