making of painted Pottery Ware: not after the
monstrous Chinese Fashion, but rather after the Mode practised with
great Success at our own Chelsea. The manner of making this Pottery was,
however, kept a high State Secret by the government of the then Saxon
Elector; and no strangers were, on any pretence, admitted to the place
where the Works were carried on; so of this we saw nothing: and not
Sorry was I of the privation, being utterly Wearied and palled with much
gadding about and Sight-seeing. So post to Frankfort, where there were a
many Jews; and thence to Mayence; and from thence down the grand old
River Rhine to the City of Cologne; whence, by the most lagging stages I
did ever know, to Bruxelles. But we stayed not here to see the
sights--not even the droll little statue of the Mannikin (at the corner
of a street, in a most improper attitude; and there is a Group quite as
unseemly in one of the Markets, so I was told, although at that time we
were fain to pass them by), which Mannikin the burgesses of Bruxelles
regard as a kind of tutelary Divinity, and set much greater store by
than do we by our London Stone, or Little Naked Boy in Panyer Alley. But
it is curious to mark what strange fanteagues these Foreigners run mad
after.
At Bruxelles my Master buys an old Post Carriage--cost him Two Hundred
and Fifty Livres, which was not dear; and the wretched horses of the
country being harnessed thereto, we made Paris in about a week
afterwards. We alighted at a decent enough kind of Inn, in the Place
named after Lewis the Great (an eight-sided space, and the houses
handsome, though not so large as Golden Square). There was a great sight
the day after our coming, which we could not well avoid seeing. This was
the Burial of a certain great nobleman, a Duke and Marshal of France,
and at the time of his Decease Governor of the City of Paris. I have
forgotten his name; but it does not so much matter at this time of day,
his Grace and Governorship being as dead as Queen Anne. It began (the
Burial), on foot, from his house, which was next door but one to our
Inn, and went first to his Parish Church, and thence, in coaches, right
to the other end of Paris, to a Monastery where his Lordship's Family
Vault was. There was a prodigious long procession of Flambeaux; Friars,
white, black, and gray, very trumpery, and marvellous foul-looking; no
plumes, banners, scutcheons, led horses, or open chariots,--altogether
most mean obsequie
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