0-1/2 in., S-2-S.
Lower back, 1 piece, 3/8 by 3-1/2 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.
Upper back, 1 piece, 3/8 by 3 by 30-1/2 in., S-2-S.
In making out this stock bill the pieces have been specified 1/4 in.
wider and 1/2 in, longer than the finished piece is to be to allow for
squaring up. The thicknesses are specified mill-planed exact so that all
that is necessary is to merely plane off the mill-marks from the two
broad surfaces.
It is quite possible that one may have a particular space or a
particular set of books to place in the shelf. In such a case the length
of the horizontals should be lengthened or shortened to meet the
particular demands when ordering the lumber.
[Illustration: Complete Wall Shelf]
Begin work by squaring the horizontals to size. They are to be all of
the same length. Next shape up the end pieces. The amount of slope for
the front edges is indicated on the drawing. After all these pieces have
been squared up and the mill-marks removed, the dadoes or grooves and
gains may be laid out and cut.
Beginners are prone to underestimate the importance of getting all the
mill-marks off before putting on any finish. When boards are planed at
the mill the planing is done by means of two or four knives revolving
above or below the board--sometimes both above and below at the same
time. These knives leave the surfaces filled with little ridges and
hollows across the grain. These hollows, though they are hardly visible
to the eye on the unfinished surface, show up as ugly streaks upon the
surface after it has had a finish of stain and filler applied.
The joints here used are typical and the beginner can readily find how
they are to be made from any good book on wood-working.
[Illustration: Wall Shelf Detail]
There are several ways of fastening the parts. They may be fastened by
means of round-head blued screws. They may be fastened with carriage
screws. The one in the illustration was put together with ordinary wire
nails and the heads of these covered with ornamental heads to represent
old-fashioned hand-wrought nails.
It will be found easier to apply the finish of stain and filler before
the parts are assembled. A suitable finish is obtained as follows: After
the parts are thoroughly sanded, put on a coat of Filipino water stain,
wiping it off with an old cloth before it has had time to soak into the
wood very much. Allow this to dry. Then sand lightly, using No. 00
paper, after which fill the p
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