dingly fine
jewels. She was dressed in white silk, bordered with pearls of the
size of beans, and over it a mantle of black silk shot with silver
threads; her train was very long. Instead of a chain, she had an
oblong collar of gold and jewels".
[Illustration: FROM A PORTRAIT OF QUEEN ELIZABETH In the possession of
his Grace the Duke of Devonshire, K.G., Hardwick Hall. The queen has
jewels in her hair, a pearl eardrop, and two necklaces, one fitting
closely to the neck, the other falling over the breast. The stiff
brocade skirt is embroidered with a wonderful array of aquatic birds
and animals. On the left, the cushion of the chair of state is
embroidered with the queen's monogram. Surmounting the chair is a
crystal ball. The original canvas measures 90 x 66 inches.]
In addition to this display the traveller tells us that the queen's
right hand was fairly sparkling with jewelled rings.
Aside from his portrayal of jewels in his numerous portraits, Holbein
ranked as the master designer of jewels in his day. Many of the finest
of these designs have been preserved for us and can be seen in the
British Museum, to which they were bequeathed by Sir Hans Sloane in
1753. There are 179 separate pieces, usually pen-and-ink sketches. The
execution of the jewels from these designs is believed to have been
mainly done by Hans of Antwerp, known as Hans Anwarpe, a friend of
Holbein, who settled in London in 1514, and was appointed goldsmith to
King Henry VIII, for whom he produced many jewels for New Year's
gifts.[23]
[Footnote 23: H. Clifford Smith, "Jewellery", London [1908], pp. 211,
213.]
In judging of the jewels figured in portraits we must remember that
the artist has often modified them to bring them into greater harmony
with their immediate surroundings. This, in some cases, may lead him
to make of a somewhat inartistically designed jewel a beautifully
proportioned one. Again, he may be led to exaggerate the size of the
precious stones or pearls, and to intensify or deepen their colors. A
recent instance regards a portrait of the former queen of Spain by one
of the foremost Spanish artists of our day. The royal lady was
depicted wearing an enormous pearl; however, the artist informed the
author that the real pearl was much smaller than the painted one, but
that, in portraying it, a better decorative effect was obtained by
increasing its size. Whether Holbein (1497-1543), with his Dutch
exactness of portrayal, was le
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