the coral beach in one of its little southern coves.
More wistfully still did we look to windward when we thought of
Barbadoes, and of the kind people who were ready to welcome us into
that prosperous and civilised little cane-garden, which deserves--
and has deserved for now two hundred years, far more than poor old
Ireland--the name of 'The Emerald Gem of the Western World.'

But it could not be. A few hours at Grenada, and a few hours at St.
Lucia, were all the stoppages possible to us. The steamer only
passes once a fortnight, and it is necessary to spend that time on
each island which is visited, unless the traveller commits himself--
which he cannot well do if he has a lady with him--to the chances
and changes of coasting schooners. More frequent and easy
intercommunication is needed throughout the Antilles. The good
people, whether white or coloured, need to see more of each other,
and more of visitors from home. Whether a small weekly steamer
between the islands would pay in money, I know not. That it would
pay morally and socially, I am sure. Perhaps, when the telegraph is
laid down along the islands, the need of more steamers will be felt
and supplied.

Very pleasant was the run up to St. Thomas's, not merely on account
of the scenery, but because we had once more--contrary to our
expectation--the most agreeable of captains. His French
cultivation--he had been brought up in Provence--joined to brilliant
natural talents, had made him as good a talker as he doubtless is a
sailor; and the charm of his conversation, about all matters on
earth, and some above the earth, will not be soon forgotten by those
who went up with him to St. Thomas's, and left him there with
regret.

We transhipped to the Neva, Captain Woolward--to whom I must tender
my thanks, as I do to Captain Bax, of the Shannon, for all kinds of
civility. We slept a night in the harbour, the town having just
then a clean bill of health; and were very glad to find ourselves,
during the next few days, none the worse for having done so. On
remarking, the first evening, that I did not smell the harbour after
all, I was comforted by the answer that--'When a man did, he had
better go below and make his will.' It is a pity that the most
important harbour in the Caribbean Sea should be so unhealthy. No
doubt it offers advantages for traffic which can be found nowhere
else: and there the steamers must continue