he conclusion that whatever is
to be done on the frontier, should be done as quickly as possible. But
to return to the story.

The next day, the 11th of September, the troops remained halted at
Ghosam, and another squadron was ordered to escort the Intelligence
Officer, Captain H.E. Stanton, D.S.O., while making a topographical
reconnaissance of the passes into the Utman Khel country. The
opportunity of making fresh maps and of adding to and correcting the
detail of existing maps only occurs when troops are passing through the
country, and must not be neglected. The route lay up the main valley
which leads to Nawagei. We started early, but the way was long and the
sun high before we reached the entrance of the pass. The landscape was
one of the strangest I shall ever see. On the opposite bank of the river
were the dwellings of the Utman Khels, and in an area seven miles by
three, I counted forty-six separate castles, complete with moats, towers
and turrets. The impression produced was extraordinary. It suggested
Grimm's fairy tales. It almost seemed as if we had left the natural
earth and strayed into some strange domain of fancy, the resort of
giants or ogres.

To reach the pass, we were compelled to traverse a large village, and
as the situation in the narrow, winding streets was about as awkward
for cavalry as could be imagined, every possible precaution was taken to
guard against attack. At length the squadron passed safely through and
formed up on the farther side. The steep ascent to the passes became
visible. As there were two routes to be reconnoitered, the party was
divided, and after a hasty breakfast we commenced the climb. For a
considerable distance it was possible to ride. At every difficult turn
of the track sowars were posted to secure the retreat, if it should be
necessary to come back in a hurry. The head man of the village furnished
a guide, a cheery and amusing fellow, who professed much solicitude for
our safety. But no reliance could be placed on these people, and on the
opposite side of the valley numerous figures could be seen moving along
and keeping pace with our advancing party. At length the horses and the
greater part of the escort had to be abandoned. I accompanied Captain
Stanton, and Captain Cole, who commanded the squadron and was also
Reuter's correspondent, with a couple of troopers to the top of the
pass. The day was intensely hot, and the arduous climb excited a thirst
which there