, irregularly hewn
planks, and no attempt is made to make them air-tight; often great
crevices gape, through which a hand can be put. The roof is generally
fairly water-tight. A man _can_ stand up-right in the middle, but the
roof slopes steeply down to the sides. The word "can" is used
advisedly, _i.e._ if one is able to breathe the densely smoky
atmosphere at the top. Chimneys or outlets in the roof to permit the
smoke to escape are unknown, and when cooking is going on, or at night
when a roaring fire is kept burning, the appearance of the hut from
outside gives a stranger the impression that it is on fire, and that
the flames must burst out at any moment. It leaks smoke at every
crevice.

Inside is an open space reserved for the wood fire, and a primitive
arrangement, often a chain suspended from the roof, for hanging the
cooking pot. A few blocks of wood serve as easy-chairs, beds there are
none, an armful of rushes or grass, which is usually damp, serving
their purpose. On entering, the new-comer will first cough violently,
then choke, and finally make a hurried exit to the fresh air.
Summoning courage and with a fresh supply of oxygen, he dashes into
the hut again, and throws himself on his heap of rushes. As the smoke
rises, the atmosphere on the ground is less dense, but the penetrating
smell of the burning wood is sufficiently strong to make his eyes pour
with water. These are first impressions; later on, he can even sit up,
and after a few days will be able to walk comparatively slowly in and
out of the hut.

Usually at the back is a small partition, behind which a rough shelf
can be found, laden with the day's milking and cheese. The whole
family sleep in the hut, no division separating the men from the
women. But the Montenegrin peasant sleeps in his clothes, so privacy
is considered unnecessary.

Dr. S. was here officially to inspect the flocks, and had an
appointment with the district captain. He was not there, and shortly
after our arrival a man turned up, delivering a message from the
captain, somewhat in the following fashion.

"Sir, it is my privilege to be the bearer of the captain's message.
The captain would have you know that he will do himself the honour to
meet you here to-morrow in the early morning."

The man stood smartly at the attention and saluted at the conclusion.

It is extraordinary the grandiloquent language which even the most
humble peasant will use, and he speaks with the p