place and many men had been killed. It is very curious to
observe the way that the Turkish and Montenegrin authorities visit
each other, for the intricate formation of the border often
necessitates the traversing of a small portion of the other's country.
Owing to the danger, everyone goes fully armed. The greatest possible
harmony reigns between the Turks and Montenegrins, as the formidable
array of Turkish decorations which adorn the breasts of all
Montenegrin border officials will testify. The Albanian is the only
cause of trouble, and it is chiefly against him that the Albanian
borders are garrisoned by Turkish troops.

In the above-mentioned border dispute, the Turks sent down a
formidable army to assist the Montenegrins and prevent an incursion
into a friendly state. Truly things have changed very much, for it was
not so very many years ago that Albania held aloof when Turk and
Montenegrin were fighting. Their sympathies, if for either side, were
with the Montenegrins, and now the hated Turk throws himself into the
balance for Montenegro.

No man goes any distance unarmed. A rifle is part and parcel of his
being. So it is that visiting Albanians carry theirs too, and it is no
uncommon sight to see eight or ten Gusinje men, conspicuous by their
white head-cloths, rifles slung over their shoulders, and a girdle of
cartridges, come into Andrijevica to market, or perhaps even to
consult the Voivoda on a question of blood-guilt.

No one knows in these parts when an alarm will be given, either by
trumpet-call or rapid magazine firing, and each man must be ever
prepared to hurry to the appointed rendezvous at a moment's notice. If
he be guarding his flock, eating at home, or carrying produce to the
market, it is the same; his rifle must be ready to his hand and
everything left standing to answer the call to arms. Life is very
real on these turbulent borders, and a chance dispute may assemble a
brigade of Montenegrins and a horde of Albanians, each ready to attack
the other on the spot. The shepherd private knows where to find his
section commander, the latter, on completion of his section, meets his
company officer, companies assemble, battalions form, and the brigade
is ready within an hour or two.

Such is the state of affairs to-day along the whole Albanian frontier,
but nowhere to such a degree as in the provinces bordering on Gusinje.

CHAPTER XIV

The Voivoda's invitation--Concerning an episode on our