more
than a year ago by Major Holdich to instruct. This led to a mutual
friendship, and on his explaining to me that he had a plan of getting
into the Kafir country, which was by accompanying Meahs Hosein Shah and
Sahib Gul (who yearly go to Chitral either through Dir or via the Kunar
Valley) as far as Birkot and then following up the Arnawai stream,
crossing the hills to the westward and returning to Jalalabad either by
the Alingar or Alishang rivers, I suggested accompanying him in the
guise of a Hakim or Tabib, _i.e._, native doctor. He was to be
accompanied by Meah Gul, a Kafir convert. The two Meahs of course had
to be consulted, and after some difficulty I succeeded in getting their
consent, having convinced them that the undertaking was entirely at my
own risk, and that in the event of my detection they would be freed
from all responsibility. I next sent in my papers for a year's furlough
with permission to spend the first half in India. This was granted, and
my leave commenced from March 27th. By April 9th I was at Nowshera, and
by three o'clock on the following morning, with head shaved, a weak
solution of caustic and walnut juice applied to hands and face, and
wearing the dress peculiar to the Meahs or Kaka Khels, and in company
with Hosein Shah, I sallied out as Mir Mahomed or Hakim Sahib.

It may not be out of place if I here mention that the Kaka Khel section
of Pathans, to which the two Meahs belong, are not only very
influential, but are respected throughout both Afghanistan and
Badakshan. The Kafirs also pay them a certain amount of respect, and
will not knowingly attack them, owing to an epidemic of cholera which
once broke out amongst them immediately after they had returned from
murdering a party of Kaka Khels, and which they superstitiously
attributed to their influence. They number in all a few short of 3,500;
this includes menials and followers. Though really considered spiritual
advisers they are virtually traders, and I do not think I am far wrong
in saying that they have the monopoly of the trade from Kabul eastward
to the borders of Kashmir territory. If you say that you are a Meahgan
or Kaka Khel, words signifying one and the same thing, you have not
only access where others are questioned, and a sort of blackmail levied
on them, but you are treated hospitably, and your daily wants supplied
free of cost--as was often the case with us. Of course the Meaghans
have to make some return. It is don