he foot we found it very stony. Our party was met at the
entrance by the khan, and later on we were invited to dinner by him.
Long before this I had got quite used to eating with my fingers, but on
this occasion I must admit I found it unpleasant diving the fingers
into a richly made curry floating in grease, and having at the next
mouthful to partake of honey and omelet. The banquet lasted for an hour
or more, and I was beginning to feel uncomfortable sitting on the
ground in the one position so peculiar to Eastern nations, when the
hookah came to my rescue, and allowed of a change in position.

We forded the Panjkhora a little above the fort, and by 5 p.m. reached
Shahzadgai.

We found the chief busy with a durbar he was holding under a large
chinar tree, and discussing the plan of attack on Kunater Fort. Our
introduction was somewhat formal, except in the case of Hosein Shah,
who was very cordially received and publicly thanked for having
responded to the chief's request to bring a doctor from India for him.

Rahmatullah Khan, chief of Dir, is an Eusafzai, ruler of a population
exceeding 600,000. In appearance he is anything but prepossessing--small
of stature and very dark in complexion for a Pathan; with not a tooth in
his head, and the skin on his face loose and wrinkled, he presents the
appearance of an aged man, though really not more than fifty-five.

I was at Shahzadgai seven days, and during that time succeeded in
bringing round the chief, who was suffering from an ordinary cold and
cough. I cannot say my stay was a pleasant one, for from early morn
till dusk our hut was surrounded by patients, and inasmuch as the chief
had recovered, it was considered a sufficient guarantee that, no matter
what the ailment or disease might be, if only the tabib would
prescribe, all would come right. Men with withered arms and legs,
others totally blind, were expected to be cured, and no amount of
persuasion would convince those who had brought such unfortunates that
the case was a hopeless one. It was here that I got as a fee the
antique seal which I have brought for exhibition to the meeting. The
man who brought it had found it across the Panjkhora, opposite
Shahzadgai, whilst throwing up some earthworks; it was then encased in
a copper vessel. General Cunningham, to whom I showed the seal at Simla
about three months ago, writes as follows:--"I am sorry to say that I
cannot make out anything about your seal. At first I t