y over branches, but tolerably large sized trunks of trees that had
been uprooted. I was told that during the winter months a regular
hurricane blows up this valley, carrying everything before it. The Pass
(Kotal) forms the northern boundary of Dir territory.

Ashreth to Chitral (5,151 feet) was done by us in three marches. It is
at the head of the Shushai Valley that the village of Madalash lies,
the inhabitants of which are alluded to by Major Biddulph, in his
"Tribes of the Hindu Kush," as being a clan speaking amongst themselves
the Persian tongue. They keep entirely to themselves, and enjoy certain
privileges denied to their surrounding neighbours, and from what I
learnt are credited as having come, over a couple of hundred years ago,
from across the Hindu Kush, _via_ the Dura Pass.

Between Daroshp and Chitral the passage by the river contracts to a
narrow gorge, over which a wall was built more than two centuries ago
to resist an attempted invasion by the troops of Jehangir. Up to this
point the Mogul force are said to have brought their elephants, but
finding it here impracticable to pass they turned back: this force came
over the Lowarai Pass. The ascent from Jalalabad is impracticable,
because the river runs in various places between Asmar and Chigar Serai
in almost impassable gorges.

It was late in the evening when we arrived at Chitral, but as the
Badshah was not feeling very well, beyond the usual salutations
exchanged with Hosein Shah and Sahib Gul, all introductions were
deferred till the following morning.

The following morning, before presenting ourselves to Aman ul Mulk, we
sent him the following presents, viz., a Waziri horse, two revolvers, a
pair of binoculars, several pieces of chintz and linen, twenty pounds
of tea, sugar, salt, and several pairs of shoes of Peshawar
manufacture, as well as trinkets for his zenana. After the preliminary
and formal inquiries as to our health, the Mehter Sahib, or Badshah,
alluded to the rumours regarding me, and wound up by saying that as he
was a friend to the British, and his country at their disposal, I was
at liberty to go about and do as I pleased, provided none of my
followers accompanied me. Fortunately, our Indian Government think
differently, and judge his character more correctly. This was not
exactly what we had expected, but rather than be thwarted in the one
object I had come for, a consent was given to his proposal; but before
we had fairly got