were wasted by our party at Dir procuring carriers, as
the Lowarai Pass (called Lohari by some) was not sufficiently clear of
snow to admit of our baggage animals crossing it, and from all accounts
brought in would not be so for another month. This decided us on
procuring the services of Baltis, who had come from Daroshp and
Chitral, and who preferred their wages being paid in cloths or salt to
sums of money. I should here add that my companions had in the
meanwhile received letters from the neighbourhood of Asmar, advising
them not to pay a visit to Arnawai just then, as the rumours concerning
us were not very favourable; so, rather than remain where we were, I
suggested visiting Chitral. The idea was adopted, the loads were made
over to the men we had engaged, and the following morning we bade adieu
to Rahmatullah Khan, and started for Mirga, elevation 8,400 feet.
Though the distance from Mirga to Ashreth is not more than ten miles,
yet it took us almost as many hours to accomplish it. From Mirga to the
Lowarai Kotal (elevation 10,450 feet) the route lay over snow. It is
quite true what has formerly been related of the number of cairns on
this pass, marking the burial of Mahommedan travellers who have been
killed by the Kafir banditti, who cross the Kunar river and attack
travellers on the road. Travellers as they pass throw stones upon those
cairns, a method universal among the Pathans in such cases. But many
bodies were still visible in various stages of decay and imperfectly
covered. There is no habitation for about six miles on either side of
the pass, and it is only when information reaches a village that they
send out to cover the remains of the true believer. The only village
between the pass and the Kunar river is Ashreth. The people of this
village pay tribute to Dir as well as Chitral, and this tribute is
rendered in the form of escort to travellers ascending the pass. But
the people themselves are Shias and recently converted Kafirs, and are
known to be in league with the Kafir banditti, giving notice to the
latter of the approach of travellers rather than rendering effective
aid against them. Fortunately the ascent was easy and gradual. The
descent is steeper, and in parts very trying. We had to cross and
recross the frozen stream several times, owing to the sides of the hill
rising almost perpendicularly from its base. To add to our
difficulties, we had to pick our way over deep snow (even in May), not
onl