nger Rock. We notice, too, very frequently, the
white lighthouses, kept very clean. Then we go through a pass, two miles
wide, called "Steep Island Pass," and are into the mouth of the
Yangtsekiang River. Up this we go for a hundred miles before reaching
Woosung, the Gravesend of Shanghai, which is still twelve or thirteen
miles farther on. Then a turn and we are in sight of Shanghai with its
factories and chimneys and great sheds called "godowns" with galvanised
iron roofs. It is a disappointing place, but as we go farther on we see
a public promenade and some clean, well-built stone houses. The
Europeanised part of the city is, however, uninteresting, and we don't
care to go into the native part by ourselves, so our chief amusement is
watching the Chinese coolies loading and unloading the ship. Notice,
they never push things on trollies, as our men do; they always carry
everything slung on a bamboo. Even that great lump of iron, which must
be part of some machinery, there it is, surrounded by a shouting horde
of men, all slinging it up by their own little ropes, all giving a hand
to carry the great mass along.

We have gathered very little of China in our short time at the ports,
but we shall be able to get a better idea of Japan. Our first idea of it
is when we stop at the island of Rokwren two days later and take on the
pilot who is going to run us through the far-famed Inland Sea. At the
same time two or three smart little Japanese doctors in European dress
come on board to inquire into the health of passengers and crew, and
give us a permit, for the Japs are most particular about not letting any
foreign germs be landed on their shores, and at every port doctors come
on board to make quite sure everyone is free from illness.

The next thing we know about Japan is her coal, for 1500 tons of it are
brought on board, in little baskets, handed from one to another of long
rows of men, women, and children, all working equally hard.

[Illustration: CHINESE PORTER.]

The narrow strait that leads into the Inland Sea is only a quarter of a
mile wide, and after passing through it we steam along quietly amid the
most beautiful scenery we have passed since leaving England. Everywhere
are little islands, well cultivated, woody, and rocky. Rocks and hills
and capes break up the vistas, and every time we turn a corner we see
something better than before. The ship stops at Kobe, but, unluckily,
you have got a touch of the sun an