cois Premier, and on its one hand is still seen the lamb of Rouen
pointing to the hours. You must by no means omit to mount the tower
and see the guardian wind it up, for the swing of its pendulum and the
simplicity of its internal arrangements will be of the greatest
interest. The astronomical part, showing the phases of the moon, is
quite modern, and is set in a separate place just behind the
clock-face. As you turn into the belfry out of the arch or arcade you
are actually walking on the old ramparts of the city; and on the wall
you may read the number of strokes rung to mark disaster in each
portion of the town, two for St. Sever, six for St. Gervais, one for
Mont Riboudet, and so forth. From the topmost gallery look out at the
many towers and spires which even now rise in such profusion above
the roofs of Rouen--St. Pierre du Chastel, St. Eloi, the front of the
Palais de Justice with the Tour St. Laurent beyond, St. Ouen looking
(to my mind) far finer from that point of vantage than the Cathedral,
which almost hides the delicate beauties of St. Maclou. Just below you
is the Hotel de Ville, and the courtyard which M. Detancourt filled
with queer mythology in various stages of undress, "pour son
agrement," says the guide.[31] To east and west runs the great arm of
the river, with that amphitheatre of hills which holds the town
pressed against the outside of the bow like an arrow-head ready to be
launched, and on the left of Mont St. Catherine you see the Darnetal
valley where every siege of Rouen had its natural beginning. If you
are fortunate enough to find one still alive who saw the seventeenth
summer of this century, Le Pere Pepin will show you too the
"tinterelles" presented by the Sieur de Mon in 1713, which hang round
Cache Ribaut to strike the hours; and the sun and moon, which are set
in their old place again above the pavilion.
[Footnote 31: This quaint courtyard is disappointing after you have
read De La Queriere's warm eulogies, and I have only found two
occasions on which it became notable in the history of the town. In
1461 the Conte de Charolais lodged here with Regnault de Villeneuve,
Avocat du Roi, whose house was known then as the "Lion d'Or"; and when
the White Rose triumphed in England, Margaret of Anjou found a refuge
here by the orders of Louis XI.]
I have already mentioned the name of Jacques Lelieur. His chief fame
rests on the admirable plan he made in 1525 of the water-supply of
Rouen, a
|