ck made by Jon, and we rode quietly on the plain.
Soon Jon stopped and a moment after I joined him.

"Paulus," said he, when I had caught up with him, "we must try another
descent." We ascended the bank in a zigzag way (I following his track)
until we reached the summit. It was hard work. This hill was very long
and steep. When ready Jon shouted: "Paulus, look out; we are going to
have another descent." The pace of my reindeer was tremendous as he went
down. The animal seemed to know that if he did not go fast enough the
sleigh would strike against his legs as he descended the hill. Down we
went; we simply seemed to fly, and as the reindeer got to the bottom he
made the same sharp turn again, the sleigh whirled round with a great
jerk, and I was thrown out head over heels as before.

During the descent, as my animal ran his hind feet threw particles of
granulated snow in my face--they were like small stones striking it with
great force. It hurt awfully. After this I was obliged to put on my mask
for protection that day.

Ever since I had begun driving reindeer I had heard a noise, a sharp
sound, as if sticks of wood were striking against each other, when the
animals were trotting at full speed. It occurred to me to ask what was
the cause of this curious noise. My Lapp replied, "Every time the hoof
of the reindeer touches the snow it spreads wide apart, broadening in
this way and keeping the animal from sinking too deep in the snow; and
when the foot is lifted, the two sides of the hoof are brought together
again, striking against each other and making the noise you hear."

I continued to improve every day in going down hill, and succeeded at
last in keeping in by throwing my body in the opposite direction when
the reindeer made his sharp turn. This difficulty conquered, I bade Jon
a hearty good-bye, thanking him for his patience in teaching me, and
continued my journey.

[Illustration: "At noon I saw the sun's lower rim touching the
horizon."]

From Rukojarvi I had followed the highroad, passed the post stations of
Korpilombolo with its church, Sattajarvi, and came to the hamlet of
Pajala, in latitude 67 deg. 10'. The hamlet is situated near the junction of
the Torne river with the Muonio, and had a church.

CHAPTER XI

THE LAST DAYS OF THE SUN.--BEGINNING OF THE LONG NIGHT.--A MIGHTY WALL
OF ICE.--THE LONG NIGHT'S WARNING VOICE.--THE AURORA BOREALIS AND
ITS MAGNIFICENCE.

The day I left Pa