f turf or stones. By the church
was the schoolhouse, and there was a large store very much like our
country stores at home.

The inhabitants owned about sixty cows,--such small cows! they were
about three feet in height--one hundred and seventy sheep and a few oxen
as small as the cows.

Kautokeino was full of nomadic Lapps, and we had a good time together,
for the Lapps are very friendly and I had learned to love them. "We come
here," they said, "to meet our friends, to see our children who are in
school, to get some of the provisions kept in our storehouses and other
things we want; and we bring with us skins of reindeer and the garments
and shoes that have been made in our tents."

In this church hamlet were a number of very old Lapps, men and women who
could no longer follow their reindeer and endure a hard, wandering life.
Thither also the sick or the lame come, to stay until they get well or
die. Two Lapps were pointed out to me who were nearly one hundred years
old.

The inhabitants of these Lapp hamlets are not nomadic; they live on the
produce of their farms, the increase of their reindeer, by catching
salmon, and in employing themselves as sailors on the fishing-boats of
the Arctic Sea, which they reach by descending the rivers.

The Lapp women wore queer-fitting little caps of bright colors, and when
in holiday dress wore a number of large showy silk handkerchiefs.
Sometimes they had as many as four, on the top of one another, over
their fur dresses; they wore necklaces of large glass beads, round their
waists were silver belts, and their fingers were ornamented with rings.
They wore trousers of reindeer skin, as the Lapp women do universally.
The men wore peaked caps.

These people were short of stature, compactly but slightly built, with
strong limbs, their light weight allowing them to climb, jump, and run
quickly. There are no heavy men with big stomachs among them. Quite a
number of Lapps have fair hair and blue eyes. They are unlike the
Esquimaux, and in a crowd at home, dressed like ourselves, would pass
unnoticed. There are a number of Lapps in the North-west of our own
county. The tallest woman that I saw was 5 feet 1/2 inch, the tallest
man 5 feet 4-1/2 inches; the smallest woman 4 feet 4-1/4 inches, the
smallest man 4 feet 7 inches. There were more women averaging 4 feet 10
inches than men of that size, men averaging generally above five feet.

I left Kautokeino, and that same day I came to