hanged their clothes, and wore their
summer every-day dress called _vuolpo_ (though it was still cold), ready
to receive me.

Some of these summer dresses were made of coarse vadmal of a gray or
blackish color; others were blue. Most were in a ragged state, or
patched--having when new been used as Sunday clothes. The men wore
square caps of red or blue flannel, and the women had extraordinary
looking head-gear resembling casques of dragoons, on account of the
wooden frame under the cloth. These were also red or blue.

"Come in," said one of the Sea Lapps, "come into my _gamme_ (house) and
see how I live." His house was of conical shape and built of sod,
supported inside by a rough frame formed of branches of trees. A fire
was burning in the centre of the hut, the smoke escaping by an aperture
above; and upon cross poles hung shoes, boots, and clothing. This sod
hut was about twelve feet high and eight feet in diameter. A large
kettle hung over the fire. It was filled with seaweed, which was cooking
for the cows. I tasted it and found it very palatable and not at all
salt.

I was hardly in this _gamme_ when I wished myself out, but kept this to
myself, for I did not want to hurt the feelings of the poor Lapp. The
interior of the place was horribly filthy--dirty reindeer skins lay on
the ground upon old dirty dried grass. A tent of a nomadic Lapp was a
model of cleanliness compared with this! The outside was just as bad; on
the ground lay the entrails and heads of fish, and a couple of barrels
filled with half-putrid liver which in time would make a barrel of brown
oil; there were a great many codfish heads drying on the rocks.

"Will you stay and have a cup of coffee with us?" my host asked.

"Yes," added his wife, "it will not take long to make a cup of coffee."

"Not to-day," I replied, "but some other time."

"All right," the host said; "don't forget."

I was glad when I got out. This abode was the _gamme_ of a poor Sea
Lapp, and the poorest kind of dwelling seen among them.

The next house, which was at a short distance, belonged to the captain
of one of the boats which had been alongside of our ship. He and his
wife were waiting for me outside and bade me come in. His house was
long, narrow, and low, and built entirely of flat stones. I entered
through a wooden door a room built in the centre of the house. Their
winter garments hung on poles, there was a pile of firewood, and a heap
of dry seaweed and rein