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about four feet eight inches in height, well built, broad shouldered, nimble as a deer, about forty years old, with a face made by the wind as red as a ripe tomato. He lived and pastured his herd of reindeer south of Karesuando. As we were introduced to each other we shook hands, and I said, "Mikel, we are going to be friends." "Yes," he replied, "we are to be friends." Then all the Sea Lapps that were round us shouted with one voice: "Paulus, we are all your friends! Mikel will take good care of you." "I will," said Mikel. "I will take good care of Paulus." "Thank you, Mikel," I replied. From that moment Mikel and I became fast friends. An hour after the arrival of the reindeer and after a hearty meal of codfish and black bread we were ready to start. Before seating myself in the sleigh, I turned my face towards the North Pole and looked at the Arctic Ocean beyond the fjord, and shouted: "Farewell to thee! farewell, tempestuous Arctic Sea! farewell to thy gales! farewell to thy snow and sleet storms. But I am glad I have been through it all, for I have learned something I did not know before. I have gained knowledge about the people and 'The Land of the Long Night.'" One of the Sea Lapps held my reindeer, and after I was seated another drew my bearskin round me, and made it secure with the cord belonging to my sleigh. When Mikel saw that I was ready he jumped into his sleigh and we started. "Good-bye, good-bye, Paulus!" shouted all the Lapps. "Good-bye, good-bye, dear Sea Lapps!"--I shouted back to them, and the last words I heard were: "Lucky journey, Paulus, come to see us again, come to see us again." CHAPTER XXXV WE ENTER A BIRCH FOREST.--THE REINDEER ARE SOON FAGGED.--SLEEP ON THE SNOW.--THE RAYS OF THE SUN MELT THROUGH THE SNOW.--GREAT DIFFICULTY IN TRAVELLING.--MEET HERDS OF REINDEER.--REINDEER BULLS FIGHT EACH OTHER. We entered the birch forest soon after our departure. We had great difficulty in driving among the trees. I was glad our reindeer were not as frisky as in the earlier part of the winter. I could hardly follow the track of Mikel, and sometimes I could not do so at all. I drove sometimes against one tree and then against another, then the boughs of the birch would strike against my face. I had not been five minutes among the birches when I was upset. At last, losing patience, I shouted to Mikel, "When are we to get out of these birch trees into
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