er day, with the following wind, wave after wave apparently
threatening to overtake us, yet our poop deck ever avoiding them. And so
on until we reached Stewart Island. We made the North Passage, and on
November 4, just ninety-two days after leaving London, we entered Port
Chalmers.

Port Chalmers is the Port of Dunedin, that fine city in the South Island
of New Zealand. Dunedin was named after the city of Edinburgh, which was
once known as Dunedin. It is just chock full of Scotsmen, and it is very
much to be doubted whether a better name could have been given it by
those sons of Scotland who first made their home there. The climate of
Dunedin much resembles the climate of Edinburgh itself. Snow covers its
streets in the winter, and the great Mount Cook, clad in snow, hovers
away in the far distance. Down towards the south scenery which not even
the fiords of Norway can rival extends from the bluff towards the north.
Milford Sounds are well known for their great beauty to all those who
have travelled in those waters. I doubt whether there is any part of the
world which, within such distances, is more magnificently picturesque
than that southern corner of the South Island of New Zealand. Enough;
this is not a guide book.

We landed at Port Chalmers and proceeded to Waine's Hotel. It was kept, I
need hardly say, by a Scotsman, and it is there still. I felt that I had
started a new lease of life. I couldn't believe it possible that I had
got rid of every pain and ache and that I was as fit as fit could be. My
first concern was to cable home and tell them not only of my safe
arrival, but of the wonderful recovery that I had made, and that I
intended to at once get to work and take advantage of the letters of
introduction that I had taken with me. Two of these were to men in
Dunedin, and, curiously enough, one of them was a well-known local man,
who happened to be the Officer Commanding the Volunteer Artillery
Company. He was most kind. He was a very keen volunteer soldier, and he
informed me that the great difficulty he had to contend with was the fact
that the Government would not place at his disposal a qualified
instructor for his corps. "If you are going to stay here a little time,"
he said, "will you give a short course of instruction to my men?" I was
only too pleased, and, within two days of my arrival in Dunedin, a parade
of the corps was held in their drill-hall--which, by the by, was an
excellent one--and we made