f courage--courage, like all things, being a matter of training
after all. We went down at a terrific speed amidst the splashing waters,
shaving dangerous rocks and escaping collision by miracle. When we got to
the bottom of the rapid we were shot into the whirlpool, which we might
have avoided with ease had Alcides obeyed the orders I shouted to him.

When I had shot the rapids before in other countries, I had always
avoided getting into the centre of the whirlpool; but Alcides, who had
never navigated a river before, held the contrary idea, and always
insisted on steering the canoe right into the centre of those dangerous
rotating waters.

[Illustration: Whirlpool at End of Rapid.]

[Illustration: In Shallow Water.]

It was sufficient to remonstrate as I did, for Alcides to do a thing over
and over again with the persistency of a mule, in order to maintain what
he thought was his _amour-propre_. As it was, on that occasion, the canoe
swerved round with such force that she nearly turned over, and got so
filled with water that we had to struggle out of the difficulty as best
we could and beach her, or she would have sunk.

At that point an island 400 m. long and 50 m. wide divided the river into
two channels. The western channel had a small island of white sand and
many rocks on its southern side. Pretty yellow flowers grew wherever a
little earth had accumulated upon the rocks.

After going 1,800 m. we found a great basin 600 m. wide with a rocky
island and barrier right across it.

Farther on innumerable rocks of all sizes could be seen on the left bank;
and 1,500 m. beyond these, where a solid rock rose in the centre of the
stream, eddies of wonderful power were produced in the stream.

We glanced at a magnificent island of rock on the left side as we sped
along swiftly with the current; but we were so busy with the difficult
navigation, and expecting accidents at any moment--what else could I
expect with the disobedient, unpractical, obstinate crew I had with
me?--that I had not much time to admire the picturesqueness of the
scenery.

I had quite foreseen that it was impossible to avoid disaster sooner or
later, so that all I could do was to think of which would be the best way
to minimize its effects, when it did come.

In the great circular basin which was formed in the river there was a
passage to the west, which I did not like at all, so I ordered my men to
follow the passage to the north-east. We met