t channels, the north-easterly one of which we
followed, finding more fearsome rapids and strong eddies, which knocked
the canoe and us about in a dangerous manner.

I was greatly concerned in going down all those rapids, as the canoe was
now in a pitiable condition. We had no way of repairing her, and I was
afraid that, with the strain of the terrific current, if we had banged
too hard against a rock, she might have split in two. I was not so
anxious for myself as I was for my men, who would certainly have been
drowned, as four of them could not swim. Also, after all the trouble I
had taken to make valuable botanical collections and a unique collection
of photographs, I was most anxious to bring them all back safely. I was
particularly anxious to bring back to Europe the wonderful fossils I had
collected on the Plateau of Matto Grosso, which I had long ago packed in
one of the cases that were fortunately among the things saved from the
previous disasters. My men had invariably grumbled at having to carry
that particular heavy box, when we had to unload the canoe and take the
baggage on our heads or shoulders at the many rapids we had encountered.
They had never once missed an occasion to remonstrate and swear at the
absurdity of having to sweat to carry "those blessed stones," or "the
devil's own stones," as they called them.

We had gone but a few thousand metres when we once more came to another
great barrier, with two islands, stretching, like most of the others,
from south-west to north-east. The only point at which we could take the
canoe down was in the rapid in the very centre of the stream--a
nasty-looking place, I can assure you--followed by a whirlpool of such
proportions as would have frightened most humans. I must say for my men
that they showed a great deal of courage that day. Whether it was because
they did not quite realize the danger, or whether it was because they had
got accustomed to it by then, I do not know; but the fact remains that
when I ordered them to go down that terrifying place they obeyed without
saying a word.

We had to exercise the greatest care, having to jump out on small rocks
which stuck up in the middle of the rapid in order to arrest the almost
uncontrollable speed of the canoe. Had they missed their footing while
jumping on those rocks and holding the ropes attached to the canoe, the
men would certainly have lost their lives, as it was out of the question
to save anybody in th