lthough it actually ran
swiftly.
Although that scene was of great placidity, we believed there was more
danger ahead of us, for we could hear in the distance the loud roar of
another rapid or waterfall. Judging by the noise we knew it must be a big
one. Soon afterwards we reached the rapid.
We had the greatest difficulty in approaching this, owing to the strong
current we encountered in a small channel we followed near the right
bank. The rapid was 400 m. wide and 400 m. long, with a drop of from 4 to
5 ft. Although we expected trouble at that spot, we shot the rapid with
comparative ease, but we were badly knocked about, and shipped a
considerable amount of water in the high waves thrown violently against
the rocks. We camped that night near the rapid, having travelled in the
day 26 kil. We made our camp in the forest, and we experienced stifling
heat, the minimum temperature (August 9th) being 73 deg. F., with heavy rain
which came down upon us through the foliage in regular bucketfuls.
We had nothing to eat in the evening. In the morning our breakfast
consisted of two sardines each. We went on in a half-hearted way, my men
grumbling all the time, and looking out for birds or monkeys. Seven
thousand five hundred metres from our camp we came to a waterfall, where
we had endless trouble. The principal channel led to 50 deg. b.m., but the
river split up into innumerable channels among islands, islets and rocks
that formed a regular maze. The river was in that particular spot 1,200
m. wide, and contained great masses of volcanic rock, much fissured, and
having great holes in them. This mass of rock extended from north-east to
south-west. There were large cracks, where the mass had split, and had
subsequently been eroded by the rush of water. The rock had cutting edges
everywhere like those of razors. With endless difficulty we had managed
to drag the canoe along nearly to the bottom of that dangerous place,
when we were suddenly confronted by a drop of 12 ft. with a terrific rush
of water over it. It was impossible for us to negotiate that point, for
below was a whirlpool absolutely impassable. We had therefore the
tiresome work of dragging back the canoe for some 350 m. up the rapid
once more, in order that we might find a more suitable channel. To make
things more lively for us, a violent thunderstorm broke out, soaking all
our baggage but making little difference to us, as we were soaked
already. We had spent that
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