f dyeing the wool will be found in the
companion volume to this on _Dyeing of Woollen Fabrics_.

=Shot Effects.=--A pleasing kind of textile fabric which is now made,
and is a great favourite for ladies' dress goods, is where the cotton of
a mixed fabric is thrown up to form a figured design. It is possible to
dye the two fibres in different colours, and so produce a variety of
shot effects. These latter are so endless that it is impossible here to
enumerate all that may be produced. It will have to suffice to lay down
the lines which may be followed to the best advantage, and then give
some recipes to illustrate the remarks that have been made. The best
plan for the production of shot effects upon union fabrics is to take
advantage of the property of certain acid dyes which dye only the wool
in an acid bath, and of many of the direct colours which will only dye
the cotton in an alkaline bath. The process, working on these lines,
becomes as follows: The wool is first dyed in an acid bath with the
addition of Glauber's salt and bisulphate of soda, or sulphuric acid,
the goods are then washed with water containing a little ammonia to free
them from the acid, and afterwards dyed with the direct colour in an
alkaline bath.

Fancy or the mode shades are obtained by combining suitable dye-stuffs.

If the cotton is to be dyed in light shades it is advantageous to dye on
the liquor at 65 deg. to 80 deg. F., with the addition of 3-1/4 oz. Glauber's
salt, and from 20 to 40 grains borax per gallon water. The addition of
an alkali is advisable in order to neutralise any slight quantities of
acid which may have remained in the wool, and to prevent the dye-stuff
from dyeing the cotton too deep a shade.

Very light shades can also be done on the padding machine. The
dye-stuffs of Group II., which have been previously enumerated, do not
stain the wool at all, or only very slightly, and are, therefore, the
most suitable. Less bright effects can be produced by simply dyeing the
goods in one bath. The wool is first dyed at the boil with the
respective wool dye-stuff in a neutral bath, the steam is then shut off
and the cotton dyed by adding the cotton dye-stuff to the bath, and
dyeing without again heating. By passing the goods through cold water to
which some sulphuric or acetic acid is added, the brightness of most
effects is greatly increased.

_Gold and Green._--First bath, 1 lb. Cyanole extra, 7-1/4 oz. Acid
green, 1-1/2 oz. Ora