thods are in use
which dye a red on cotton that is cheaper, but not so brilliant or fast
as a true Turkey red.
_Process_ 1.--This process is perhaps the most elaborate of all
processes, but it yields a fine red. The process is applicable to cloth
or yarn, although naturally the machinery used will vary to suit the
different conditions of the material. Bleached yarn or cloth may be
treated, although a full bleach is not necessary, but the cloth or yarn
must be clean or well scoured, so that it is free from grease and other
impurities.
Operation 1. Boil the cotton for six to eight hours with a carbonate of
soda lye at 1 deg. Tw. in a kier at ordinary pressure, then wash well,
wring, or, better, hydro-extract.
Operation 2. First "greening": What is called the "first green liquor"
is prepared by taking 15 lb. of gallipoli oil, 3 lb. phosphate of soda
and 15 lb. carbonate of soda, the liquor to stand at 2 deg. Tw. Originally
this "liquor" was made with sheep dung, but this is now omitted. The
cotton is worked in this liquor, which is kept at 100 deg. F., until it is
thoroughly impregnated, then it is taken out, squeezed and dried, or in
some cases piled overnight and then stoved.
Operation 3. Second green liquor. As before.
Operation 4. Third green liquor. As before.
Operation 5. A carbonate of soda liquor of 2 deg. Tw. strength is prepared,
and the cotton steeped in this until it is thoroughly impregnated, then
it is wrung out and stoved. This is called "white liquor treatment".
Operation 6. Second white liquor. As before.
Operation 7. Steeping: Prepare a bath of water at 150 deg. F., and steep for
twelve hours, then wring and dry.
Operation 8. Sumacing: A liquor is made from 12 lb. sumac with water,
and after straining from undissolved sumac leaves the liquor is made to
stand at 2 deg. Tw., this is kept at about a 100 deg. F., and the cotton is well
worked in it and allowed to steep for four hours, after which it is
taken out and wrung.
Operation 9. Mordanting or aluming: 20 lb. of alum are dissolved in hot
water, and 5 lb. of soda crystals are slowly added in order to prepare a
basic alum solution; this is now made by the addition of water to stand
at 8 deg. Tw.
The sumaced cotton is worked in this bath and allowed to steep for
twenty-four hours, when it is taken out and wrung. Some dyers add a
little tin crystals to this bath; others add a small quantity of red
liquor.
Operation 10. The dyeing
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