d instead of the plough, the hedges neglected,
mole-casts in the pastures, good land run to waste, the peasants
starving and indebted--where, with a little thrift and humanity, all had
been smiling plenty! Learned that on the owner's death this great
property reverts to the Barnabites.

From Boscofolto to the church of the Madonna del Monte, where is one of
their wonder-working images, said to be annually visited by close on
thirty thousand pilgrims; but there is always some exaggeration in such
figures. A fine building, richly adorned, and hung with an extraordinary
number of votive offerings: silver arms, legs, hearts, wax images, and
paintings. Some of these latter are clearly the work of village artists,
and depict the miraculous escape of the peasantry from various
calamities, and the preservation of their crops from floods, drought,
lightning and so forth. These poor wretches had done more to better
their crops by spending their savings in good ploughshares and harrows
than by hanging gew-gaws on a wooden idol.

The Rector received us civilly and showed us the treasury, full of
jewels and costly plate, and the buildings where the pilgrims are
lodged. Learned that the Giubileo or centenary festival of the Madonna
is shortly to be celebrated with great pomp. The poorer classes delight
in these ceremonies, and I am told this is to surpass all previous ones,
the clergy intending to work on the superstitions of the people and thus
turn them against the new charter. It is said the Duke hopes to
counteract these designs by offering a jewelled diadem to the Virgin;
but this will no doubt do him a bad turn with the esprits libres. These
little states are as full of intrigues as a foul fruit of maggots.

The 5th.

To dinner at Count Trescorre's where, as usual, I was the
plainest-dressed man in the company. Have long since ceased to be
concerned by this: why should a mere English farmer compete in elegance
with these Monsignori and Illustrissimi? Surprised to find among the
company my travelling-companion of the other day. Learned that he is the
abate de Crucis, a personal friend of the Duke's. He greeted me
cordially, and on hearing my name, said that he was acquainted with my
works in the translation of Mons. Freville, and now understood how it
was that I had got the better of him in our farming disputations on the
way hither.

Was surprised to be told by Count Trescorre that the Duke desired me to
wait on him that