evening. Though in general not ambitious of such
honours, yet in this case nothing could be more gratifying.

The 6th.

Yesterday evening to the palace, where his Highness received me with
great affability. He was in his private apartments, with the abate de
Crucis and several other learned men; among them the famous abate
Crescenti, librarian to his Highness and author of the celebrated
Chronicles of the Italian States. Happy indeed is the prince who
surrounds himself with scholars instead of courtiers! Yet I cannot say
that the impression his Highness produced on me was one of HAPPINESS.
His countenance is sad, almost careworn, though with a smile of engaging
sweetness; his manner affable without condescension, and open without
familiarity. I am told he is oppressed by the cares of his station; and
from a certain irresolution of voice and eye, that bespeaks not so much
weakness as a speculative cast of mind, I can believe him less fitted
for active government than for the meditations of the closet. He
appears, however, zealous to perform his duties; questioned me eagerly
about my impressions of Italy, and showed a flattering familiarity with
my works, and a desire to profit by what he was pleased to call my
exceptional knowledge of agriculture. I thought I perceived in him a
sincere wish to study the welfare of his people; but was disappointed to
find among his chosen associates not one practical farmer or economist,
but only the usual closet-theorists that are too busy planning Utopias
to think of planting turnips.

The 7th.

Visited his Highness's estate at Valsecca. Here he has converted a
handsome seat into a school of agriculture, tearing down an immense
orangery to plant mulberries, and replacing costly gardens and statuary
by well-tilled fields: a good example to his wealthy subjects.
Unfortunately his bailiff is not what we should call a practical farmer;
and many acres of valuable ground are given up to a botanic garden,
where exotic plants are grown at great expense, and rather for curiosity
than use: a common error of noble agriculturists.

In the afternoon with the abate de Crucis to the Benedictine monastery,
a league beyond the city. Here I saw the best farming in the duchy. The
Prior received us politely and conversed with intelligence on drainage,
crops and irrigation. I urged on him the cultivation of turnips and he
appeared struck by my arguments. The tenants on this great estate
appeared bette