their estates, left their
peasantry to be pillaged by rapacious middlemen and stewards: an
argument I have heard advanced by other travellers, and have myself had
frequent occasion to corroborate.

On leaving the Bishop's domain, remarked an improvement in the roads.
Flat land, well irrigated, and divided as usual into small holdings. The
pernicious metayer system exists everywhere, but I am told the Duke is
opposed to it, though it is upheld not only by the landed class, but by
the numerous economists that write on agriculture from their closets,
but would doubtless be sorely puzzled to distinguish a beet-root from a
turnip.

The 3rd.

Set out early to visit Pianura. The city clean and well-kept. The Duke
has introduced street-lamps, such as are used in Turin, and the pavement
is remarkably fair and even. Few beggars are to be seen and the people
have a thriving look. Visited the Cathedral and Baptistery, in the
Gothic style, more curious than beautiful; also the Duke's picture
gallery.

Learning that the Duchess was to ride out in the afternoon, had the
curiosity to walk abroad to see her. A good view of her as she left the
palace. Though no longer in her first youth she is one of the handsomest
women I have seen. Remarked a decided likeness to the Queen of France,
though the eye and smile are less engaging. The people in the streets
received her sullenly, and I am told her debts and disorders are the
scandal of the town. She has, of course, her cicisbeo, and the Duke is
the devoted slave of a learned lady, who is said to exert an unlimited
influence over him, and to have done much to better the condition of the
people. A new part for a prince's mistress to play!

In the evening to the theatre, a handsome building, well-lit with wax,
where Cimarosa's Due Baroni was agreeably sung.

The 4th.

My lord Hervey, in Florence, having favoured me with a letter to Count
Trescorre, the Duke's prime minister, I waited on that gentleman
yesterday. His excellency received me politely and assured me that he
knew me by reputation and would do all he could to put me in the way of
investigating the agricultural conditions of the duchy. Contrary to the
Italian custom, he invited me to dine with him the next day. As a rule
these great nobles do not open their doors to foreigners, however well
recommended.

Visited, by appointment, the press of the celebrated Andreoni, who was
banished during the late Duke's reign for suspect