agician's island.
I rather liked Cape Town; there was a good library, very fair balls,
pretty women, and a pleasant country near, well sprinkled with good
houses, the hospitality of which might well be introduced in place of
the oyster-like seclusion of many homes in England.
Three months after landing in Table Bay I again embarked for Algoa Bay,
_en route_ for the frontier. We had a pleasant calm voyage, keeping the
coast in sight during the whole passage, and putting into two or three
bays, where a delay of a few hours enabled me to haul on board a good
dish of grotesque-looking fish, and some crayfish: the latter were
excellent eating.
On the sixth day we landed at Port Elizabeth, Algoa Bay, whence I
started without delay; sand, swindling horse-dealers, naked Fingoes, and
drunken Hottentots being my principal sights at this town. I managed to
obtain a mount from a friend who had voyaged from Cape Town with me, and
thus reserved my selection of a quadruped until I arrived at Graham's
Town. We examined the surrounding country for game, but saw only a
hare, a few quail, and one buck. I was told that ostriches were within
a few miles, and that elephants had been seen near the Sundays river a
day or so past.
The ox-waggon of the Cape is a four-wheeled vehicle with a canvas tilt;
it is completely a necessary of the South-African resident: it is his
house, his ship, and in many cases his income. Until he builds a house,
he lives in the waggon, keeps all he possesses there, and travels from
spot to spot independent of inns or other habitations. From the general
suppleness of the vehicle, owing to the very small quantity of iron
which is used in its construction, it is well adapted for the purposes
of crossing the steep-banked rivers and stony roads that are here so
frequent.
Fourteen oxen are generally used for a team, each having his regular
place, and answering to his wonderful name. A miserable Hottentot boy
or Fingo is employed to perform the part of leader: he is called
"forelouper;" his duty being to hold a small rope that is fastened to
the horns of the two front oxen, and to lead them in the right road.
The inspanning or coupling completed, the rope by which, the team pulls
the waggon is then stretched, and the driver, whirling his gigantic whip
round his victims, and with a shrill yell that a demon might utter,
shouts, "Trek! Trek! Achterman! Roeberg!" (the names of two oxen)
"Trek ye!"
Th
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