eared
to be failing, and then, turning tail, he galloped off, followed by his
conqueror. Finding that the sun had moved a considerable distance while
I was engaged in watching the bull-fight, I pushed on faster than the
usual African travelling-pace, and found, before twelve miles were
ridden, that my horse appeared much distressed. The day was intensely
hot, and I thought an "off-saddle" for half an hour might refresh the
animal; but upon again starting I found it difficult to spur even a trot
out of him. I dismounted and tried to lead him, but found he was one of
those brutes that will not follow. He stuck his head out as I drew the
reins tight, but would not stir an inch. Remounting, I managed to
hustle him along at a smart walk; but even this I did not accomplish
without considerable manual and spur labour. I had nearly five miles
before me, and the sun was within half an hour of setting. Had the
night been fine, a ride would have been pleasant during the moonlight;
but the dark heavy clouds that were gathering round, and a drop of rain
that fell occasionally, gave earnest of a coming storm. No house or
resting-place was there on the road, except that for which I was making
my way, and Botha's, which latter was five miles farther. I reached
Stony Hill soon after dark, and was preparing to dismount at the door of
the inn, near which I noticed two waggons; when the man who kept the
establishment came out, and said, "Who's that?" I told him that I
wanted a dinner, a bed, and stabling. I heard him make a remark in
Dutch to some person within the building, and distinguished "verdamt
Englishmensch" as two of the words. He then turned round to me, and
said, "I can't give you a dinner or a bed." I told him that I was not
particular about what I ate, but, as my horse was knocked up, I could
not go farther. He said, "Well, you shan't stop here; and if you didn't
mind sleeping in the pigsty, I wouldn't even let you have a bed there."
I was very angry with him, and high words ensued; and I am afraid that
deeds would have followed the words, had not a Hottentot near me
whispered that I had better not strike the man, as he would not hesitate
to use the knife when he was half-drunk. I therefore turned my tired
horse again into the road, and, with a vigorous dig of the spur,
retreated, from the conflict. I had now five miles of a very rough road
before me: it passed over stony hills, and wound round the side of
other