ommodations because I was known to be from the
North. In one town, several of us, passengers by an evening train, were
solicited to go to a certain hotel; but the clerk declined to give me a
room, when he learned that I was from Massachusetts, though I secured
one after a time through the favor of a travelling acquaintance, who
sharply rebuked the landlord.

It cannot be said that freedom of speech has been fully secured in
either of these three States. Personally, I have very little cause of
complaint, for my _role_ was rather that of a listener than of a talker;
but I met many persons who kindly cautioned me, that at such and such
places, and in such and such company, it would be advisable to refrain
from conversation on certain topics. Among the better class of people,
resident in the cities and large towns, I found a fair degree of
liberality of sentiment and courtesy of speech; but in travelling off
the main railway-lines, and among the average of the population, any man
of Northern opinions must use much circumspection of language; while, in
many counties of South Carolina and Georgia, the life of an avowed
Northern radical would hardly be worth a straw but for the presence of
the military. In Barnwell and Anderson districts, South Carolina,
official records show the murder of over a dozen Union men in the months
of August and September; and at Atlanta, a man told me, with a quiet
chuckle, that in Carroll County, Georgia, there were "four d--n Yankees
shot in the month of October." Any Union man, travelling in either of
these two States, must expect to hear many very insulting words; and any
Northern man is sure to find his principles despised, his people
contemned, and himself subjected to much disagreeable contumely. There
is everywhere extreme sensitiveness concerning the negro and his
relations; and I neither found nor learned of any village, town, or city
in which it would be safe for a man to express freely what are here, in
the North, called very moderate views on that subject. Of course the war
has not taught its full lesson, till even Mr. Wendell Phillips can go
into Georgia and proclaim "The South Victorious."

II.

I often had occasion to notice, both in Georgia and the Carolinas, the
wide and pitiful difference between the residents of the cities and
large towns and the residents of the country. There is no homogeneity,
but everywhere a rigid spirit of caste. The longings of South Carolina
are ess