s end, that the state of bondage
which succeeded the conquest of 1848 has gradually and by successive
moves been lightened, until today their relations with Austria may be
approximated by the statement that Franz Josef, King of Hungary,
happens to be at the same time Emperor of Austria, and that the two
nations have a close defensive and offensive military alliance. In
order to promote the efficiency of this alliance, their War and
Foreign Relations ministries are united into single organizations.
There is one Austro-Hungarian Minister of Foreign Affairs, but there
are separate Ministers of Education, Agriculture, etc. History shows
that the salvation of Hungary has often depended upon the ability of
her leaders to play their three powerful neighbors against one
another.

In the present war they are making use of alliances with Austria and
Turkey, the two most decadent of their three historic enemies, in
order to stem the onrush of Russia, their third and most powerful
antagonist. They are a people ever faithful to their alliances even to
the point of unselfishness.

* * * * *

_Thursday, December 31st._ Budapest is one of the most beautiful
cities I have seen. The great Danube, deep, magnificent, and
rapid--500 yards wide--flows by, with Buda on its right bank and Pest
on its left. Great hills sheer out of the water and on them are the
government buildings and the Royal Palace. The humbler structures
cluster in the valleys between the hills. Most of the architecture of
the town is very good and the worst of it is better than the average
elsewhere. The river, spanned by four handsome bridges, is skirted on
either side by drives and official buildings; museums and expensive
hotels face these drives. The city is in every way very modern, with
broad avenues, excellent street-car systems, and clean, well-lit
streets.

* * * * *

_Friday, January 1, 1915._ I spent today in sightseeing,--the first
day in several weeks that I have been free from social engagements. I
took a guide from the hotel in order to waste no time and miss no
sights that one ought to enjoy. We went to the public market, the
Industrial Museum, the Art Museum, the public park, and the Cathedral.
My guide was a most convulsing person. He was supposed to speak
"perfect English," but achieved some extraordinary effects. Would you
know what "sinkim pork" might mean? He said, "everyone eats it