the Ohio hills, while the far-reaching vista downstream
is a feast of shade and tint, by land and water, with the lights and
smoke of New Cumberland and Sloan's Station faintly discernible near
the horizon. All about us lies a beautiful world of woodland.
The whistle of quails innumerable broke upon us in the twilight,
succeeding to the calls of rose-breasted grosbeaks and a goodly
company of daylight followers; in this darkening hour, the low,
plaintive note of the whip-poor-will is heard on every hand, now
and then interrupted by the hoarse bark of owls. There is a gentle
tinkling of cowbells on the Ohio shore, and on both are human voices
confused by distance. All pervading is the deep, sullen roar of a
great wing-dam, a half mile or so down-stream.

The camp is gypsy-like. Our washing lies spread on bushes, where it
will catch the first peep of morning sun. Perishable provisions rest
in notches of trees, where the cool evening breeze will strike them.
Seated upon the "grub" box, I am writing up our log by aid of the
lantern hung from a branch overhead, while W----, ever busy, sits by
with her mending. Lying in the moonlight, which through the sprawling
willows gayly checkers our sand bank, the Doctor and the Boy are
discussing the doings of Br'er Rabbit--for we are in the Southland
now, and may any day meet good Uncle Remus.

[Footnote A: On this creek was the hunting-cabin of the Seneca (Mingo)
chief, Half King, who sent a message of welcome to Washington, when
the latter was on his way to Great Meadows (1754).]

CHAPTER IV.

An industrial region--Steubenville--Mingo Bottom--In a steel
mill--Indian character.

Mingo Junction, Ohio, Wednesday, May 9th.--We had a cold night upon
our island. Upon arising this morning, a heavy fog enveloped us, at
first completely veiling the sun; soon it became faintly visible, a
great ball of burnished copper reflected in the dimpled flood which
poured between us and the Ohio shore. Weeds and willows were sopping
wet, as was also our wash, and the breakfast fire was a comfortable
companion. But by the time we were off, the cloud had lifted, and the
sun gushed out with promise of a warm day.

Throughout the morning, Pilgrim glided through a thickly settled
district, reminding us of the Monongahela. Sewer-pipe and
vitrified-brick works, and iron and steel plants, abound on the
narrow bottoms. The factories and mills themselves generally wear
a prosperous look;