but the dependent towns vary in appearance, from
clusters of shabby, down-at-the-heel cabins, to lines of neat and
well-painted houses and shops.

We visited the vitrified-brick works at New Cumberland, W. Va. (56
miles), where the proprietor kindly explained his methods, and talked
freely of his business. It was the old story, too close a competition
for profit, although the use of brick pavements is fast spreading.
Fire clay available for the purpose is abundant on the banks of the
Ohio all the way from Pittsburg to Kingston (60 miles). A few miles
below New Cumberland, on the Ohio shore, we inspected the tile works
at Freeman, and admired the dexterity which the workmen had attained.

But what interested us most of all was the appalling havoc which these
clay and iron industries are making with the once beautiful banks of
the river. Each of them has a large daily output of debris, which is
dumped unmercifully upon the water's edge in heaps from fifty to a
hundred feet high. Sometimes for nearly a mile in length, the natural
bank is deep buried out of sight; and we have from our canoe naught
but a dismal wall of rubbish, crowding upon the river to the
uttermost limit of governmental allowance. Fifty years hence, if these
enterprises multiply at the present ratio, and continue their present
methods, the Upper Ohio will roll between continuous banks of clay and
iron offal, down to Wheeling and beyond.

Before noon we had left behind us this industrial region, and were
again in rustic surroundings. The wind had gone down, the atmosphere
was oppressively warm, the sun's reflection from the glassy stream
came with almost scalding effect upon our faces. We had rigged an
awning over some willow hoops, but it could not protect us from this
reflection. For an hour or two--one may as well be honest--we fairly
sweltered upon our pilgrimage, until at last a light breeze ruffled
the water and brought blessed relief.

The hills are not as high as hitherto, and are more broken. Yet
they have a certain majestic sweep, and for the most part are
forest-mantled from base to summit. Between them the river winds with
noble grace, continually giving us fresh vistas, often of surpassing
loveliness. The bottoms are broader now, and frequently semicircular,
with fine farms upon them, and prosperous villages nestled in generous
groves. Many of the houses betoken age, or what passes for it in this
relatively new country, being of the coloni