ot learn.
The afterwards famous _Alberoni_ (since made a Cardinal) was in his
Attendance; as indeed the Duke was very rarely without him. I remember
that very Day three Weeks, they return'd through the same Place; the
Duke in his Herse, and _Alberoni_ in a Coach, paying his last Duties.
That Duke was a prodigious Lover of Fish, of which having eat over
heartily at _Veneros_, in the Province of _Valencia_, he took a Surfeit,
and died in three Days' time. His Corps was carrying to the _Escurial_,
there to be buried in the _Panthaeon_ among their Kings.

The _Castilians_ have a Privilege by Licence from the Pope, which, if it
could have been converted into a Prohibition, might have sav'd that
Duke's Life: In regard their Country is wholly inland, and the River
_Tagus_ famous for its Poverty, or rather Barrenness; their Holy Father
indulges the Natives with the Liberty, in lieu of that dangerous
Eatable, of eating all Lent time the Inwards of Cattle. When I first
heard this related, I imagin'd, that the Garbidge had been intended, but
I was soon after this rectify'd, _by Inwards_ (for so expressly says the
Licence it self) _is meant the Heart, the Liver, and the Feet_.

They have here as well as in most other Parts of _Spain, Valencia_
excepted, the most wretched Musick in the Universe. Their _Guitars_, if
not their _Sole_, are their darling Instruments, and what they most
delight in: Tho' in my Opinion our _English_ Sailors are not much amiss
in giving them the Title of _Strum Strums_. They are little better than
our _Jews-harps,_ tho' hardly half so Musical. Yet are they perpetually
at Nights disturbing their Women with the Noise of them, under the
notion and name of Serenadoes. From the Barber to the Grandee the
Infection spreads, and very often with the same Attendant, Danger: Night
Quarrels and Rencounters being the frequent Result. The true born
_Spaniards_ reckon it a part of their Glory, to be jealous of their
Mistresses, which is too often the Forerunner of Murders; at best
attended with many other very dangerous Inconveniences. And yet bad as
their Musick is, their Dancing is the reverse. I have seen a Country
Girl manage her Castanets with the graceful Air of a Dutchess, and that
not to common Musick; but to Peoples beating or druming a Tune with
their Hands on a Table. I have seen half a Dozen couple at a time dance
to the like in excellent order.

I just now distinguish'd, by an Exception, the Music of _Vale