uld be esteem'd a Man of a narrow
Curiosity, who should not desire to see the Chamber where _Louis le
grand_ took his first Night's Lodging with his Queen. Accordingly, when
it was put into my Head, out of an Ambition to evince my self a Person
of Taste, I asked the Question, and the Favour was granted me, with a
great deal of _French_ Civility. Not that I found any Thing here, more
than in the Isle of _Conference_, but what Tradition only had rendered
remarkable.
_Saint Jean de Luz_ is esteem'd one of the greatest Village Towns in all
_France_. It was in the great Church of this Place, that _Lewis_ XIV
according to Marriage Articles, took before the high Altar the Oath of
Renunciation to the Crown of _Spain_, by which all the Issue of that
Marriage were debarred Inheritance, if Oaths had been obligatory with
Princes. The Natives here are reckon'd expert Seamen; especially in
Whale fishing. Here is a fine Bridge of Wood; in the middle of which is
a Descent, by Steps, into a pretty little Island; where is a Chapel, and
a Palace belonging to the Bishop of _Bayonne_. Here the Queen Dowager of
_Spain_ often walks to divert herself; and on this Bridge, and in the
Walks on the Island, I had the Honour to see that Princess more than
once.
This _Villa_ not being above four Leagues from _Bayonne_, we got there
by Dinner time, where at an Ordinary of twenty _Sous_, we eat and drank
in Plenty, and with a _gusto_, much better than in any part of _Spain_;
where for eating much worse, we paid very much more.
_BAYONNE_ is a Town strong by Nature; yet the Fortifications have been
very much neglected, since the building of the Citadel, on the other
Side the River; which not only commands the Town, but the Harbour too.
It is a noble Fabrick; fair and strong, and rais'd on the side of a
Hill, wanting nothing that Art could furnish, to render it impregnable.
The Marshal _Bouflers_ had the Care of it in its erection; and there is
a fine Walk near it, from which he us'd to survey the Workmen, which
still carries his Name. There are two noble Bridges here, tho' both of
Wood, one over that River which runs on one side the Town; the other
over that, which divides it in the middle, the Tide runs thro' both with
vast Rapidity; notwithstanding which, Ships of Burden come up, and
paying for it, are often fasten'd to the Bridge, while loading or
unloading. While I was here, there came in four or five _English_ Ships
laden with Corn, the first,
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