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as they told me, that had come in to unlade there, since the beginning of the War. On that Side of the River where the new Citadel is built, at a very little distance lies _Pont d' Esprit_, a Place mostly inhabited by _Jews_, who drive a great Trade there, and are esteemed very rich, tho' as in all other Countries mostly very rogueish. Here the Queen Dowager of _Spain_ has kept her Court ever since the Jealousy of the present King reclus'd her from _Madrid_. As Aunt to his Competitor _Charles_ (now Emperor) he apprehended her Intrigueing; for which Reason giving her an Option of Retreat, that Princess made choice of this City, much to the Advantage of the Place, and in all Appearance much to her own Satisfaction. She is a Lady not of the lesser Size; and lives here in suitable Splendour, and not without the Respect due to a Person of her high Quality: Every time she goes to take the Air, the Cannon of the Citadel saluting her, as she passes over the Bridge; and to say Truth, the Country round is extremely pleasant, and abounds in plenty of all Provisions; especially in wild Fowl. _Bayonne_ Hams are, to a Proverb, celebrated all over _France_. We waited here near five Months before the expected Transports arrived from _England_, without any other Amusements, than such as are common to People under Suspence. Short Tours will not admit of great Varieties; and much Acquaintance could not be any way suitable to People, that had long been in a strange Country, and earnestly desired to return to our own. Yet one Accident befell me here, that was nearer costing me my Life, than all I had before encounter'd, either in Battle or Siege. Going to my Lodgings one Evening, I unfortunately met with an Officer, who would needs have me along with him, aboard one of the _English_ Ships, to drink a Bottle of _English_ Beer. He had been often invited, he said; and I am afraid our Countryman, continued he, will hold himself slighted, if I delay it longer. _English_ Beer was a great rarity, and the Vessel lay not at any great distance from my Lodgings; so without any further Persuasion I consented. When we came upon the Bridge, to which the Ship we were to go aboard was fastened, we found, as was customary, as well as necessary, a Plank laid over from the Ship, and a Rope to hold by, for safe Passage. The Night was very dark; and I had cautiously enough taken care to provide a Man with a Lanthorn to prevent Casualties. The Man with the
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