as they told me, that had come in to unlade
there, since the beginning of the War.
On that Side of the River where the new Citadel is built, at a very
little distance lies _Pont d' Esprit_, a Place mostly inhabited by
_Jews_, who drive a great Trade there, and are esteemed very rich, tho'
as in all other Countries mostly very rogueish. Here the Queen Dowager
of _Spain_ has kept her Court ever since the Jealousy of the present
King reclus'd her from _Madrid_. As Aunt to his Competitor _Charles_
(now Emperor) he apprehended her Intrigueing; for which Reason giving
her an Option of Retreat, that Princess made choice of this City, much
to the Advantage of the Place, and in all Appearance much to her own
Satisfaction. She is a Lady not of the lesser Size; and lives here in
suitable Splendour, and not without the Respect due to a Person of her
high Quality: Every time she goes to take the Air, the Cannon of the
Citadel saluting her, as she passes over the Bridge; and to say Truth,
the Country round is extremely pleasant, and abounds in plenty of all
Provisions; especially in wild Fowl. _Bayonne_ Hams are, to a Proverb,
celebrated all over _France_.
We waited here near five Months before the expected Transports arrived
from _England_, without any other Amusements, than such as are common to
People under Suspence. Short Tours will not admit of great Varieties;
and much Acquaintance could not be any way suitable to People, that had
long been in a strange Country, and earnestly desired to return to our
own. Yet one Accident befell me here, that was nearer costing me my
Life, than all I had before encounter'd, either in Battle or Siege.
Going to my Lodgings one Evening, I unfortunately met with an Officer,
who would needs have me along with him, aboard one of the _English_
Ships, to drink a Bottle of _English_ Beer. He had been often invited,
he said; and I am afraid our Countryman, continued he, will hold himself
slighted, if I delay it longer. _English_ Beer was a great rarity, and
the Vessel lay not at any great distance from my Lodgings; so without
any further Persuasion I consented. When we came upon the Bridge, to
which the Ship we were to go aboard was fastened, we found, as was
customary, as well as necessary, a Plank laid over from the Ship, and a
Rope to hold by, for safe Passage. The Night was very dark; and I had
cautiously enough taken care to provide a Man with a Lanthorn to prevent
Casualties. The Man with the
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