_Charles_ the Third, then King of _Spain_, but
now Emperor of _Germany_. Though I must confess, being a Heretick, I
could much easier find a Reason for a fair Lady's presenting such a
Sword to a King of _Spain_, than for a King of _Spain's_ presenting such
a Sword to a fair Lady: And by the Motto upon it, _Pulchra tamen nigra_,
it was plain such was his Opinion. That Prince was so delighted with the
Pleasure's of this sweet Place, that he, as well as I, stay'd as long as
ever he could; though neither of us so long as either could have wish'd.

But there was another Offering from a King of _Portugal_, equally
glorious and costly; but much better adapted; and therefore in its
Propriety easier to be accounted for. That was a Glory for the Head of
her Ladiship, every Ray of which was set with Diamonds, large at the
Bottom, and gradually lessening to the very Extremity of every Ray.
Each Ray might be about half a Yard Long; and I imagin'd in the Whole
there might be about one Hundred of them. In short, if ever her Ladiship
did the Offerer the Honour to put it on, I will though a Heretick,
venture to aver, she did not at that present time look like a humane
Creature.

To enumerate the rest, if my Memory would suffice, would exceed Belief.
As the upper Part was a plain Miracle of Nature, the lower was a
compleat Treasury of miraculous Art.

If you ascend from the lowest Cell to the very Summit, the last of all
the thirteen, you will perceive a continual Contention between Pleasure
and Devotion; and at last, perhaps, find your self at a Loss to decide
which deserves the Preheminence: For you are not here to take Cells in
the vulgar Acceptation, as the little Dormitories of solitary Monks: No!
Neatness, Use, and Contrivance appear in every one of them; and though
in an almost perfect Equality, yet in such Perfection, that you will
find it difficult to discover in any one of them any thing wanting to
the Pleasure of Life.

If you descend to the Convent near the Foot of that venerable Hill; you
may see more, much more of the Riches of the World; but less, far less
Appearance of a celestial Treasure. Perhaps, it might be only the
Sentiment of a Heretick; but that Awe and Devotion, which I found in my
Attendant from Cell to Cell grew languid, and lost in meer empty Bigotry
and foggy Superstition, when I came below. In short, there was not a
great Difference in their Heights, than in the Sentiments they inspir'd
me with.

Befo