in our party being
well acquainted with the rivers to the northward, Mr. Connolly gave us a
pilot on condition that we should exchange him when we met with the
Athabasca brigade of canoes. At four A.M. we embarked.
We soon found that birchen-bark canoes were not calculated to brave rough
weather on a large lake, for we were compelled to land on the opposite
border to free them from the water which had already saturated their
cargoes. The wind became more moderate and we were enabled, after
traversing a chain of smaller lakes, to enter the mouth of the Sturgeon
River at sunset, where we encamped.
The lading of the canoes is always if possible carried on shore at night
and the canoes taken out of the water. The following evening we reached
Beaver Lake and landed to repair some damages sustained by the canoes. A
round stone will displace the lading of a canoe without doing any injury
but a slight blow against a sharp corner penetrates the bark. For the
purpose of repairing it, a small quantity of gum or pitch, bark and pine
roots are embarked, and the business is so expeditiously performed that
the speed of the canoe amply compensates for every delay. The Sturgeon
River is justly called by the Canadians La Riviere Maligne from its
numerous and dangerous rapids. Against the strength of a rapid it is
impossible to effect any progress by paddling and the canoes are tracked
or, if the bank will not admit of it, propelled with poles, in the
management of which the Canadians show great dexterity. Their
simultaneous motions were strongly contrasted with the awkward confusion
of the inexperienced Englishmen, defended by the torrent, who sustained
the blame of every accident which occurred.
At sunset we encamped on an island in Beaver Lake and, at four A.M. the
next morning, passed the first portage in the Ridge River. Beaver Lake is
twelve miles in length and six in breadth. The flat limestone country
rises into bold rocks on its banks and at the mouth of the Ridge River
the limestone discontinues. The lake is very deep and has already been
noticed for the number and excellence of its fish. The Ridge River is
rapid and shallow. We had emerged from the muddy channels through an
alluvial soil, and the primitive rocks interrupted our way with frequent
portages through the whole route to Isle a la Crosse Lake. At two P.M. we
passed the mouth of the Hay River, running from the westward, and the
ridge above its confluence takes the
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