ated outside the Kremlin, is a truly
grotesque building, having no less than 20 towers and domes, all of
different shapes and sizes, and painted in every possible colour. Some
are crowned with a network of green over a surface of yellow; another
dome is bright red, with broad white stripes, and a third is gilded.

It is said to be a whim of the Tzar Ivan the Terrible to see how many
distinct chapels could be erected under one roof in a given space of
ground, so that services could be performed at one time without
interrupting each other.

It is further related that the Tzar was so delighted with the architect
that when the edifice was finished he sent for him, pronounced a high
eulogium on his work, and then ordered his eyes to be put out so that he
could never build such another.

The chapel of the Iberian Mother of God is situated in an archway; and
at the further end is the saint herself in a kind of sanctuary.

Her complexion, like most of the Russian saints, is a dark brown, not to
say black.

Round her head is a net of pearls, on one shoulder a large jewel is
fastened, and another of equal brilliancy rests on her brow, above
which, the whole being lighted up by thirteen silver lamps, glitters a
splendid crown.

Pass whenever he pleases, the traveller will find the chapel beset by
worshippers.

Her hand and the foot of the child are covered with dirt from the
abundant kissing, and have almost disappeared.

None ever pass, however urgent their business, without bowing and
crossing themselves; the greater part actually enter, kneel devoutly
before the Mother, and pray with fervent sighs. Fashionable ladies leave
their equipages and prostrate themselves in the dust along with the
meanest beggars.

It is frequently visited by the Tzars, and it is said that Alexander the
First never omitted to do so, and more than once in the middle of the
night he wakened the monks that he might perform his devotions.

In addition to all these places of worship, there is an immense
cathedral dedicated to Jesus, erected on rising ground a little out of
the city.

It has taken 21 years in building, and will require as many more to
complete it; the interior presenting only a forest of props placed in
all directions.

The dome is very large, resembling that of St. Isaac, and equally
splendidly gilt.

Besides the churches, there are numerous convents and monasteries. Two
of the principal we visited, and found them to consi