providing for
dinner, which we determined should be the best the country afforded, to
consist of fish and fowl, each of which had to be bought separately,
and, with separate portions of lard, sent to different houses to be
cooked.
During the interval of preparation I took a walk along the shore.
Toward the end of a sandy beach was a projecting point, on a line with
which I noticed on the water what seemed to be a red cloud of singular
brilliancy, and, at the same time, delicacy of colour, which, on
drawing nearer, I found to be a flat covered with flamingoes. On my
return I reported the discovery to Doctor Cabot, when our host gave us
such a glowing account of flamingoes, scarlet ibises, and roseate
spoonbills at Punta Arenas, about two leagues distant, that my
imagination was excited by the idea of such clouds of beautiful
plumage. Doctor Cabot was anxious for closer acquaintance with the
birds, and we determined, in case our horses arrived, to go thither
that same afternoon, and, after a few hours' shooting, overtake Mr.
Catherwood the next day at Izamal. In good time our horses arrived with
Dimas, in fine order; and as he had had some days' rest, we took him
and an Indian procured by our host, and at about four o'clock set out.
For the first league our road lay directly along the shore, but farther
on there were projecting points, to cut off which a footpath led among
mangrove trees, with shoots growing from the branches into the ground,
forming what seemed a naked and impenetrable canebrake, surmounted by
thick green foliage. In many places it was difficult to advance on
horseback; from time to time we came out upon a broken, stony shore,
and, considering that we had set out merely for a short ride, we found
ourselves travelling on one of the wildest roads we had met with in the
country. At dusk we reached a hut in a beautifully picturesque
position, imbosomed in a small bay, with a frail bridge, about two feet
wide, running out some distance from the shore, and a canoa floating at
the end. The hut consisted of two parts, connected by a thatched
arbour, empty, and apparently begging for a tenant. A string of fish
hung on one of the beams, and on the ground were a few smothered coals.
We swung our hammocks, kindled a fire, and when the occupant arrived
had a cup of chocolate ready for him, and endeavoured to make him feel
himself at home; but this was no easy matter. He was a lad of about
sixteen, the son of the p
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