tch is taken from the point of the loop thus formed
forwards, and the thread again kept under the point, so that a regular
chain is formed on the surface of the material.

This chain stitch was much employed for ground patterns in the
beautiful gold-coloured work on linen for dress or furniture which
prevailed from the time of James I. to the middle of the eighteenth
century. It gave the appearance of quilting when worked on linen in
geometrical designs, or in fine and often-repeated arabesques.
Examples of it come to us from Germany and Spain, in which the design
is embroidered in satin stitch, or entirely filled in with solid
chain stitch, in a uniform gold colour.

Chain stitch resembles _Tambour work_, which we shall describe amongst
framework stitches, though it is not at present practised at this
School.

* * * * *

_Twisted Chain_, or Rope stitch.

[Illustration: No. 9.--TWISTED CHAIN.]

Effective for outlines on coarse materials, such as blankets, carriage
rugs, footstools, &c.

It is like an ordinary chain, except that in place of starting the
second stitch from the centre of the loop, the needle is taken back to
half the distance behind it, and the loop is pushed to one side to
allow the needle to enter in a straight line with the former stitch.
It is not of much use, except when worked with double crewel or with
tapestry wool; and should then have the appearance of a twisted rope.

* * * * *

_Feather Stitch._--Vulgarly called "_long and short stitch_," "_long
stitch_" and sometimes "_embroidery stitch_." We propose to restore to
it its ancient title of feather stitch--"_Opus Plumarium_," so called
from its supposed resemblance to the plumage of a bird.

[Illustration: No. 10.--FEATHER STITCH.]

We shall now describe it as used for handwork; and later (at page 37),
as worked in a frame. These two modes differ very little in
appearance, as the principle is the same, namely, that the stitches
are of varying length, and are worked into and between each other,
adapting themselves to the form of the design, but in handwork the
needle is kept on the surface of the material.

Feather Stitch is generally used for embroidering flowers, whether
natural or conventional.

In working the petal of a flower (such as we have chosen for our
illustration), the outer part is first worked in with stitches which
form a close, even edge on the outline,