work
is extremely amusing, and gives scope to much play of fancy and
ingenuity, and when artistically composed it is sometimes very
beautiful.

Another style of "onlaid applique" is only worked in solid outlines,
laid down in ribbon or cord, sometimes in both. This was much in vogue
in the time of Queen Anne, and for a hundred years after.

[Illustration: No. 20.]

The ribbon, very soft and thick, sometimes figured, sometimes plain,
was manufactured with a stout thread on each side, which could be
drawn, and so regulate the ribbon and enable it to follow the flow of
the pattern.

The German, French, and Italians often enriched this style of work
with a flower, embroidered and applied thrown in here and there. Very
small fringes also were introduced into the pattern, or arabesqued.

"Cut work," like the appellation "Feather stitch," has a totally
different meaning when it is given to white embroidery, and it has
nothing to do with applique, but takes its name from the fact that the
pattern is mostly cut or punched out, and then edged with button-hole
or plain overlaid stitch.

In working applique it is best, although not absolutely necessary, to
have the design traced on the material to be used as a ground, which
must then be framed as for ordinary embroidery. A copy of the design
must be made on tracing-paper, and the outlines carefully pricked out
with a needle or pin, laying the paper on several folds of flannel or
cloth for greater convenience in pricking.

A pad, made of a long strip of flannel about four inches wide, rolled
very tightly, must be made ready, and some pounce made of about equal
quantities of finely powdered charcoal and pipe-clay. The leaf or
scroll which is wanted for the work must now be selected, and the
pricked design laid face downwards on the fabric which is to be
applied. The flannel pad must be dipped in the pounce and rubbed well
into the outlines of the pricked design, which must be held firmly in
its place with the left hand. On lifting the tracing-paper, the design
will be found to be marked out on the material distinctly enough for
it to be cut out with a sharp pair of scissors. The pounce can
afterwards be dusted off.

The leaf or scroll having been thus cut out must be fastened in its
place on the design with small pins, and then carefully sewn down. The
edges are then finished off by stitches of embroidery or by a couching
line (_see_ page 39). The stems are frequently work