* * * * *

_Genoa or Lyons Velvet_ makes a beautiful ground for embroidery; but
it can only be worked in a frame, and requires to be "backed" with a
thin cotton or linen lining, if it is to sustain any mass of
embroidery. For small articles, such as sachets or casket-covers, when
the work is fine and small, the backing is not necessary. Screen
panels of velvet, worked wholly in crewels, or with crewel brightened
with silk, are very effective. Three-piled velvet is the best for
working upon, but is so expensive that it is seldom asked for.

* * * * *

_Silk Velvet Plush_ (a new material) can only be used in frame work,
and must be backed. It is useful in "applique" from the many beautiful
tones of colour it takes. As a ground for silk or gold embroidery it
is also very good.

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TEXTILE FABRICS.

GOLD AND SILVER CLOTH.

_Cloth of Gold or Silver_ is made of threads of silk woven with metal,
which is thrown to the surface. In its best form it is extremely
expensive, varying from L4 to L6 per yard, according to the weight of
gold introduced. Cloth of silver is generally L3 the yard.

* * * * *

Inferior kinds of these cloths are made in which silk largely
predominates, and shows plainly on the surface. They are frequently
woven in patterns, such as diaper or diagonal lines, with a tie of red
silk, in imitation of the diaper patterns of couched embroidery.

They are chiefly used in ecclesiastical or heraldic embroidery; their
great expense preventing their general use.

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CHAPTER III.

STITCHES USED IN HAND EMBROIDERY AS TAUGHT AT THE ROYAL SCHOOL OF
ART-NEEDLEWORK.

To avoid pulling or puckering the work, care should be taken--firstly,
that the needle is not too small, so as to require any force in
drawing it through the material; secondly, the material must be held
in a convex position over the fingers, so that the crewel or silk in
the needle shall be looser than the ground; and thirdly, not to use
too long needlefuls. These rules apply generally to all handworked
embroideries.

STITCHES.

_Stem Stitch._--The first stitch which is taught to a beginner is
"stem stitch" (wrongly called also, "crewel stitch," as it has no
claim to being used exclusively in crewel embroidery). It is most
useful in work done in the hand, and especially in outlines of
flowers, unshaded leaves, and arab