l spectacle vanished as by enchantment, and was
converted into a most mournful sight. The vermilion feathery sprays, now
deprived of the sun's light upon them, were converted into so many
gigantic black feathers--of rather funereal appearance--and the emerald
green sky became of a dead leaden white. The deep blue, fringed with red
and yellow, of the radiant mountains had now turned into a sombre,
blackish-grey.

About four miles before reaching Girdi a track branches off, which avoids
that place altogether, and rejoins the track again one mile south of
Girdi, thus saving a considerable detour.

Our march that day had been from Warmal to Mahommed Raza-Chah (altitude
2,100 feet), eight miles, and from that place to Girdi-chah, twenty-eight
miles. The track between the two latter stations was perfectly level, and
on _jumbaz_ camels going at a good pace the journey had occupied eight
hours and a half.

On arriving at Girdi (altitude 2,200 feet), the Beluch _sawar_ whom I had
taken as guide from Mahommed Raza Chah, and my Beluch driver had a most
touching scene on meeting some Beluch of a caravan travelling in the
opposite direction to mine and camping at Girdi for the night.

The men hastily dismounted from their camels, put their heads together
and pressed each the other's right hand, holding it on the heart.

"It is my brother!" cried my camel man, and then followed another
outburst of effusion on the brother's part, who seized my hand in both
his and shook it heartily for a considerable time. The others followed
suit.

There is nothing that an Afghan or a Beluch likes better than a good
hearty hand-shake.

CHAPTER XXVII

Girdi-chah, a desolate spot--Its renowned water--Post-houses and
Persian Customs soldiers--Nawar-chah and its well--The salt river
Shela--Its course--Beautiful colours in salt
crystals--Tamarisks--The Kuh-i-Malek-Siah--The loftiest
mountain--Afghans--Hormak, a picturesquely situated post
station--A natural pyramid of rock--Natural fortresses--The
Malek-Siah Ziarat--Where three coveted countries meet--The
hermit--The evolution of a sand hill--Parallel sand dunes--In
Beluchistan--Robat, the most north-easterly British post.

Girdi-chah (altitude 2,200 feet), a desolate spot in a desolate region,
remains impressed in the minds of visitors merely and only for the
vileness of its water. Sadek brought me a glass of it for inspection, and
it was s